Dining out in Providence

Back to Tini's

2012-01-21T13:53:00.000-05:00

OK, I know -- it seems we're hung up on the same places to eat in Providence, that we go to the same places over and over again. Well, there's a good reason for that -- we like those places. That's pretty simple, I should think.

Anyway, we went back to Tini's last night (Friday) ostensibly for a glass of sparkling to celebrate Susie's new space (the lease will be signed on Monday) and ended up staying for dinner.

We started out with a cocktail of gin, Campari and prosecco, along with an order of Tini's fries with mayonnaise and hot sauce. Next up was the roasted fennel app with a glass of Gruner, and then Susie had the scallops with beluga lentils (washed down by a Provencal rose) and I had the Veal Milanese (con un bicchiere da nebbiolo).

Service, as always is friendly and the atmosphere cozy and intimate (although I would opt for more comfortable stools).

In a city noted for its culinary creatives, Darius Salko is one of the most inventive chefs around -- but even more importantly he has a deep understanding of harmony and balance in his flavorings and portions. My veal, a tender cut, was breaded and lightly fried to perfection and the accompanying wide pasta tasted as if the cheese was in the pasta and not on it (no messy glob of cheesy sauce oozing oil and spreading everywhere on this dish). Susie's scallops were equally perfect and the lentils with bits of bacon made for a superb winter dish.

Tini's menu may have changed from its Tapas roots but it still remains one of the better values in Providence.

Tini's
200 Washington St
Providence, RI 02903

Fanizzi's in Provincetown

2012-01-16T14:45:00.000-05:00

OK so it's not Providence but it's sound a lot like it.

Anyway, on a recent day trip to the very tip of Cape Cod we stopped for lunch at this place on Commercial Street in Provincetown. The food was OK, service friendly but rushed -- the place was packed since there was virtually nothing else open in town. But the view was incredible.

Spring rolls for starters (over-fried and oddly tough we thought):

Susan had a Caesar with grilled chicken (not bad):

And I had fresh cod (locally caught I was told), fried with cheddar on a toasted bun with fries.

I thought the fish tasted rather bland and the fries had an unusual crispy coating, which didn't have an impact on the flavor one way or the other. The slaw, however, was not the typical sloppy mayonnaise mess but a crisp, tasty vinegar concoction that was actually quite good.

We washed the meal down with an inexpensive but crisp vinho verde (Portugal). Oh, and we skipped dessert.

New Year's Eve Dinner at New Rivers

2012-01-01T06:39:00.007-05:00

Although the menu was limited, what struck me -- and I think everyone at the table agreed -- this was one of those very rare times that everything on the menu seemed appealing.

After the first course, which we all shared, I started with the duck pastrami; everyone else had the tartlet.

Along with the starters, we shared a bottle of pinot gris from Willamette Valley. For the third course Dorothy had the lamb rack, Dick had the chop, and Susie had the scallops:

I had the 3-grain cassoulet:

The main course was accompanied by a bottle of Brouilly. We all shared the cheese course (scrumptious). For dessert I had the ice cream with caramel sauce, Susie had tarragon pound cake and Dick and Dorothy both had the molten chocolate cake.

We all thought the food universally delicious, the portions right and the pacing spot on as well. Bruce, Beau and the crew at New River's did a spectacular job of making a special evening truly enjoyable -- well worth the $65 per person.

Leaving the restaurant I felt the evening air was only slightly crisp and smacked more of late fall than winter. As we walked leisurely back to the car we were amazed at how quiet the city was, wondering what was really happening with the Providence Bright Night (i.e., "First Night") program. Oddly typical in a city noted for being typically odd.

Happy New Year!!

Tini's in Providence

2011-12-23T08:08:00.003-05:00

After slaving in the kitchen all day Susie, AKA the French Tarte, needed a break from the heat and admittedly pleasant pressures of baking -- naturally, in a city known for its food we went out to eat.

A favorite spot to grab an early evening cocktail or glass of wine is Tini's at 200 Washington Street, right across from Trinity Rep, one of the city's most popular theaters. This night, however, we decided to stay and enjoy Darius' latest menu offerings. And we were not disappointed -- no sirree!

So many people in this corner of the planet are familiar with Atwell's Avenue -- yet for us the "Federal Hill" cachet is more smoke and mirrors than anything else. Overpriced mediocrity is how we tend to describe much if not most of the food on Atwell's. The real culinary gems, the places where you will find consistently outstanding cuisine are scattered around other corners of the city: Nick's on Broadway, Broadway Bistro, Ama's, Chez Pascal, New Rivers, Bacaro's and Cook and Brown to name our favorites.

Anyway, back at Tini's we settled on a pair of stools near the back wall (Hickock Syndrome) and kicked off with a brace of Rosy Cheeks cocktails - vodka, Campari and grapefruit jouce; and boy were these good!

For starters we ordered the "Spicy Broccoli" with chili peppers. Yes, it was a bit piccante but delicious -- roasted to perfection with just the right bite to it.

We both had pasta; I had Darius' homemade gnocchi -- with sourdough flour instead of potato -- in a rabbit ragu, kalamata olives and chiles.

Susie had the short ribs ravioli with mushrooms and gorgonzola.

Both pastas were washed down with a glass of Nebbiolo.

Like the other restaurants noted above, Tini's defines the new wave Providence food scene: quality, creativity, and value all wrapped up in just the portion.

Tini's
200 Washington Street
Providence
401-383-2400

New Rivers it is for New Year's Eve

2011-12-21T18:09:00.000-05:00

It was a hard choice for New Year's Eve -- Nemo at Cook and Brown, Matt Gennuso at Chez Pascal or Bruce and Beau at New Rivers.

We opted for New Rivers: Five courses for 65 bucks and we requested the cozy room -- hint, hint. OK the new space has lots of glass and a wonderful view (at night) of the church steeple (they are on Steeple Street, after all). But it's just not, you know, cozy, bistro-like.

The idea is to support the handing off of the baton, the transition of administrations, and we want to help make that change as smooth as possible, to do our part. To say good-bye to Bruce and hello (again) to Beau and his crew.

Stay tuned -- we'll have a full report plus photos on January 1 (or 1 January for the Europeans).

2011-12-20T14:52:00.000-05:00

Well, they've done it again. Mike Sears and Allan, his main (and only) man in the kitchen have gone and produced yet another scrumptious, mouth-watering meal at Ama's. That's right, the man who recently moved a diner from the backside of Loie Fuller's parking lot two blocks down Westminster street and plopped it down on a brand-new foundation without so much as batting an eye. That Mike Sears.

In case you still haven't gotten over to Ama's you are missing out not only on some wonderfully delicious and imaginatively creative cuisine, but at a damn good value. And a wine list to match.

Susie and Andie had the bento boxes (15 bucks each) and the three of us split two orders of the green beans for apps -- and a bottle of French sparkling wine.

Thats living West side style.

New Rivers is doing a semi-special for New Year's Eve

2011-12-12T18:11:00.002-05:00

I just heard from Bruce Tillinghast at New Rivers on Steeple Street in Providence. They will be offering a special five-course meal from a limited menu for $65 -- NOT including drinks, tips, tax. That's not bad. . . not bad at all!

Where to go for New Year's Eve Dinner in Providence?

2011-12-12T10:01:00.000-05:00

Well, we've started the process of looking for a place to have dinner this NYE -- no, not the eat-until-midnight-and-then-break-out-the-party-favors sort of affair. Just a nice sit down dinner, special menu, maybe wine pairings to relax and usher out one part of our life while we make room for the next part.

So far we've ruled out La Laiterie/The Farmstead in Wayland Square. Their special menu appeared to focus on a beer theme, among other things that didn't really appeal to us.

Gracie's is doing the special midnight thing -- as they usually do, with theme and all. Sounds like fun but, again, not our style.

Tini's is going to be closed this year, I'm told.

Chez Pascal and Cook and Brown are two strong possibilities; they both claim to be working on a special menu -- but we're waiting to hear what the details are and cost. I'm also waiting to hear whether New Rivers is doing anything special at all.

Any ideas out there?

Bacaro's in Providence - An A+ meal

2011-12-05T06:06:00.003-05:00

Last Saturday Susie and I headed over to Tini's downtown Providence for an aperitif before slipping across the river to Bacaro's for dinner.

A truly unique food bar Tini's is always a pleasant, cozy (emphasize cozy) place to hang out, chat and sip a cool glass of sparkling wine or try one of their latest cocktail creation (for us it was something called Must Lust that included prosecco, gin and fresh squeezed grapefruit joice).

Anyway, we did notice the big menu change: they are now offering larger portions, the traditional "main course" items featured on your typical menu. Since Darius is still the kitchen guru there shouldn't be any concern about loss of quality that's for sure. But American's seemed obsessed with big: big houses, big cars, big rooms, big portions.

From Tini's we scooted back to the car and drove five minutes through downtown and over the Crawford Street Bridge, up and around to Bacaro's on Water Street. We were right on time for our reservation and seated straightaway. Service was just about right, although we'd both like to see more American restaurants be less attentive. I don't need someone coming by two or three times to ask if I need anything or if everything is OK. Usually they catch me with food in my mouth. Even so, if something isn't OK wouldn't I flag someone down and let them know?

Anyway, the food was superb -- in fact the starter of crispy octopus on a bed of creamy white beans with Swiss chard and all drizzled with honey was eeeeencredible. Following that up, Susie had crispy chicken with pappardelle and I had a scrumptious filet with tiny bliss potatoes and a salad. Large portions, particularly the pasta dish. (See Tini's above.) We each shared a 1/4 liter of white with the app and 1/4 liter of red wine with the main course.

Our A-list of places to eat in Providence

2011-11-07T16:31:00.001-05:00

Providence is a food town -- a really big food town and there seems to be an endless places of eat. That's true, up to a point, for us at any rate. We seem to return to the same places again and again, always for the food first and foremost while service or ambiance typically figure prominently in our choices. Our perennial favorite is Pat Lowney's Broadway Bistro on Broadway (of course) in the west side. Whenever we want delicious comfort food: ribs 'n grits, incredible Brussels Sprouts (in season) or fishcakes or . . ., we never have to think twice about where to go. Whenever we want to just sit and relax over a crisp white or supple red wine, we know where to go.

Broadway Bistro. It's the closet thing to eating in someone's home you're likely to find in a city dominated by the food culture. No pretentiousness, no fancy service, you walk in, peek across the pass-through into the kitchen slide up to the bar or grab an intimate table with a window onto Broadway and you're set for the evening.

Next on our A-list is New Rivers steered quietly, carefully and wonderfully by the dynamic duo of food: Bruce Tillinghast and Beau Vestal. Incredible food and a fantastic wine list (ask Bruce for suggestions).

Next in line -- if such a thing as sating one's hunger for great food at a decent price can be somehow quantified and ordered like so many pieces of furniture -- anyway, our next choices would be:

Chez Pascal
Tini's
Cook and Brown
Derek Wagner's Nick's On Broadway (that street again)
Bacaro's
Al Forno
Iron Wok
Fellini's Pizza (Wickendon Street) tied with Bob & Timmy's Pizza (Spruce Street)

O Dinis in East Providence

2011-10-22T20:32:00.000-04:00

It’s no secret that Providence has become something of a Mecca for foodies. From the rather tired, jaded atmosphere of Atwell’s Avenue to the incredible food prepared by the young turks Downcity and on the East Side the food scene here can be quite spectacular.

But there is more to this city than the traffic jams of Atwell’s, the bright lights of Washington Street or the chic casual flair of eateries along Hope Street. There is East Providence where the food caters to families and to Portuguese families in particular. Two places have developed a bit of a reputation, one of which, “O Dinis,” we had the pleasant experience of enjoying last Thursday evening.

Located along the rather tired Warren Avenue and in a nondescript building with no parking (on the street please) the singular giveaway that you are about to enter another world is the large, brightly lit sign hung over the front door. We walked in and found ourselves in a slice of Portugal right here in the New World. The décor reminded us both of so many faceless cafes, bars, oseterie, ristorante, bistro scattered around the Mediterranean, places that we popped into on a whim or at the suggestion of someone who knew someone who we met, places that offered delicious food at a reasonable price, places that reminded you that restaurants, in some cultures at any rate, are meant to be an acceptable substitute for home.

That’s “O Dinis.”

A young woman who had just started balancing a large table of women preparing for a Halloween fest greeted us and quietly informed us we could sit wherever we liked. We scooted across the room past families, couples, and single men and found a table for two not far from the bar, by the front window.

The warm cacophony surrounded us, putting us in a cocoon of comfort and letting us relax in a restaurant for the first time in I don’t know how long. In one corner a TV tuned to a Portuguese channel,, at several tables around us men my age, older and younger, speaking Portuguese, occasionally slipping into English or something else altogether, it wasn’t always clear. But it was most pleasant.

Our server was Michelle. Lively, friendly but without that feigning intimacy so common in American restaurants, she was there when we needed her but otherwise off on her other appointed rounds.

Susie and I both ordered beef: sirloin grilled with a friend egg on top sandwiched by rice on one side and French fries on the other, pretty standard fare for the local Portuguese to find out later. Our starter was homemade grilled chorizo sausage. Our starter was washed down with a delicious Portuguese white, crisp and to the point, whiel the beef was compliment by a nice half bottle of red – from the same vintner as the white in fact.

I should say that I didn’t recognize any of the Portuguese wines on the list, at least they didn’t look familiar to any of the ones we’ve seen at Bottles on the east side of Providence,, where we now buy our wines.

The food was tasty – I’ll skip the rice next time we go -- and the fries were basic, probably out of a large bag – but the meat! Whoa! It was tender, succulent and perfect. We had a homemade flan caramel for dessert, also very nice. Service was impeccable and the price was right -- $58 for the two of the us, tip not included.We’ll definitely go back. And you should definitely go.

New Rivers in Providence for Susie's birthday

2011-08-03T10:40:00.000-04:00

Eating out in Bangor, Maine

2011-08-01T10:41:00.000-04:00

Friday night at Woodman's Grill for burgers:

Susie playing pool at Woodman's in Orono

The Stout Berger - beer-braised beef with bacon

Saturday the four of us opted for a return engagement to Green Tea, located in the maze of the Bangor Mall complex:

Al Forno

2011-07-21T07:14:00.000-04:00

We met up with Andrea for an early dinner at Al Forno in Providence. Located just over the Point Street Bridge from where we work at Davol Square, it was certainly an easy drive. The restaurant doesn't participate in Restaurant Weeks, now underway in Providence, but that didn't seem to slow business in the least. By the time we left the place was packed with hungry eyes searching here and there for a spot to land.

We decided to skip going indoors for dinner, choosing instead to sit amidst the warmth of a green arbor that seemed to nearly envelop everyone as they walked inside. Notwithstanding the rush of traffic on nearby I-195 it was a real treat to sit outside and relax over what would be a very tasty meal indeed.

An aperitif followed by a bottle of Gavi helped speed things along and make the warm evening air seem just a tiny bit cooler. First things first, as they say, and kicked the evening off by sharing the corn fritter app. . .

. . . and while Susie and Andrea split a Caesar salad I had zucchini blossoms:

While several things on the menu looked tempting, we gravitated toward their classic grilled pizzas: Andrea and Susie each had the fresh corn pizza and I had the calamari with arrabiata sauce.

Frankly, the squid was some of the best I've eaten eaten, the breading was just about perfect I thought and the arrabiata sauce deliciously piccante, sparking each mouthful of food.

The service was quite good, the table bread scrumptious although they seemed reluctant to provide more than a drip or two of olive oil in a tiny pitcher. Odd. And the prices are a bit steep we thought, hovering around Gracie's and Bacaro's, but the food was wonderful, with nothing but glowing reports from all quarters. There you have it.

Life is full of tradeoffs.

The Boat House in Tiverton

2011-06-02T14:42:00.000-04:00

The question has often been asked at our dining table: why are there so many restaurants along the water serving so much mediocre food? Here we are, living smack in the middle of a state largely on the water and yet you'd be hard pressed to find decent local fish let alone fish that was well-prepared at most of the waterfront restaurants. (But then this is not a phenomenon unique to RI but we've seen this over and over again: Maine, Vermont, Virginia, Michigan, the list seems endless.)

To New England foodies it's no secret that the Newport Restaurant Group has the lock on picking gorgeous locations to site their eateries tempered by uninspiring menus. Every time we get the urge to sit by the water, sipping an aperitif while spending a relaxing evening dining out we find ourselves at either Waterman Grille (the "e" at the end is a giveaway) in Providence or the Boat House in Tiverton (both NRG properties). And every time we remark afterward that the best thing about the dinner was the water.

Our latest outing to the Boat House was a case in point.

It was a gorgeously warm evening this past Monday when we headed east to Tiverton and the Boat House for waterfront dining. We had been here once before a couple of years back for brunch and were impressed by the location -- and the food as we recall was not bad then either. But this was to be a much more challenging experience.

The wine -- a vinho verde -- was crisp and nicely chilled. The Point Judith calamari app was delicious to be sure but my fish and chips bordered on appalling: a piece of cod trapped inside an enormous rock-hard shell of something that had probably once been bread or some flour-base derivative. The cole slaw was warm, in fact nearly hot, the tartar sauce was so thin it would've made a tartar switch to beef and the fries were heavy, soggy and pretty much devoid of flavor. Susan's salad was thin and the quinoa was sparse although her crab cake was OK, yet still unremarkable.

The wine prices we thought about average here but the selections seemed weighted in favor of those jug wines that would be familiar to people not generally familiar with wines in the first place. In all fairness, we had two glasses of the vinho verde and I almost sprang for the bottle: the price was a very good value at $26. Otherwise be careful about your choices and don't count on the staff to be of any more help than the nearest marketing department.

Service was hit or miss -- again, in all fairness the volume these kids have to handle is quite overwhelming so you should have to take that into consideration. Still, our server never asked us about the food nor did the other server comment when she removed my largely uneaten plate of food.

When going to either the Waterman Grille or the Boat House, the important thing is to focus on salads (generally OK) or, an even smarter move, the burgers.

Dessert at Gracie's for New Year's Eve

2011-05-30T17:14:00.000-04:00

December 31, 2009, late -- Gracie's was hoppin' -- better late than not at all, eh?

For the special NYE dinner menu, two dessert setups were prepared, but I only got a chance to snap this one:

Happy New Year! That's the catchphrase of the day. Make it the focus of the whole year and we'll be all set.

Some great dinners out in Providence but beware of the high-priced drinks

2011-05-19T18:10:00.001-04:00

This past spring we've returned to Ama's, Cook and Brown, Broadway Bistro and, just last week, Chez Pascal where we both enjoyed the bistro menu. Any of these will serve delectable food just about any day of the week, with fairly consistently good service. But I suppose if we had to rank them would be BB, Ama's, Chez Pascal and C & B, in that order -- the best value in our mind still is BB with Ama's following a close second (although their menus are radically different). Also, the last time we at C & B we felt the aperitifs were a bit steep (comparatively speaking.

And speaking of steep, it would appear that the local "cocktail culture" here in greater Providence is sliding out of control. We recently had an aperitif at Loie Fuller, right across the street from our condo. We like to pop over there from time-to-time, mainly for an early evening drink, saving their menu for Sunday Brunch (incredible food).

Anyway, we ordered what was a custom drink consisting of Campari and dry Vermouth topped off with a splash of prosecco, in a champagne flute for $14 apiece! The better cocktail value is still to be found at The Avery -- also in our neighborhood -- with the added benefit of letting you walk 30m across the street for dinner at Ama's.

Now THAT's value.

Olga's Cup and Saucer

2010-12-16T15:24:00.000-05:00

A dining fixture in Providence for more than a quarter of a century, Olga's Cup and Saucer, known locally as simply "Olga's," has become an icon (along with Seven Stars) for those seeking fresh bread and a tasty sandwich.

But I draw the line at their soup.

Over the past several months I've tried three of their soups, the last one just yesterday: a disappointing Navy Bean. Basically a mediocre tomato vegetable, the beans, less navy than coast guard, were smallish, a bit too firm to the bite and not worth the time or trouble it took to prepare, order or eat it.

So stick with the panini's, the tuna melt, the salads or whatever, but steer clear of the soups.

Cook and Brown in Providence

2010-12-06T11:54:00.002-05:00

It's been too long since I've updated this blog -- primarily because we tend to eat at the same wonderful places right here in Providence, and you've heard most of those details all before. But I wanted to share our latest dining adventure: a very nice new restaurant opened about 8 months ago on the East Side, right across the street from one of our favorite places, Chez Pascal.

Called Cook and Brown (no, I don't know why), you can skip Atwell's Avenue, this place needs to go right to the top of your list of places to eat next.

We had an early dinner and were probably the second table seated for the evening. By the time we left, at nearly 8pm, the bar was shoulder to shoulder and the restaurant was packed, each table full to capacity.

Ambience -- a magical word in today's dining experience -- was cozy, and the small dining space had a comfortable neighborhood feel. and indeed, one senses that lots of the folks dining that evening were locals.

Service (Kandace with a "K") was friendly, straightforward, and attentive without being invasive, striking just the right balance we thought.

Food was delicious, filling and creative without being contrived. I had Hubbard squash soup with chicken confit and pumpkin seed and Susie had the swordfish salad. Yes, we thought it sounded strange, too, but the flavor was so good you couldn't wait for the next bite. For our entree (or plat in French) Susie had the John Dory (not him personally just his fish), on a bed of small white beans and veggies, and I had the Cuban sandwich with a side of their home frites. Outstanding in every way. Portions were just right and so our second meal at Cook & Brown proved just as wonderful experience as our first.

We can't wait to try their Sunday dinner, one seating. . . See ya there!

Olga's for lunch, Broadway Bistro and New Rivers for Dinner

2010-02-02T06:24:00.002-05:00

Since the turn of the new year we've been to Olga's twice for lunch. It's located just a block from where I work in Providence, on the corner of Richmond and Point Streets, and a great place to meet up with Susie and family when they breeze through the city (like our niece Rachel did recently, along with her boyfriend Steve).

The sandwiches are delicious and always freshly made with Olga's incredible bread. The tortilla-corn soup we had recently, though, was a bit on the mediocre side but I'm eager to try their chili.

Broadway Bistro is always a favorite of ours and we enjoy Pat Lowney's scrumptious comfort food: his incredible short ribs n grits app is a meal until itself and a bargain, to be sure. He still lacks a solid wine list but what he does offer is OK -- and of course there are NO desserts.

Susie and I spent last Friday at New Rivers, celebrating my dad's 100th birthday. We were impressed by the newly remodeled space and found the use of glass on one side and mirrors on the other imaginative. Bruce's wine list is one of the best in the city with plenty of value to be found. We ordered a steak for my dad -- he was a very picky eater -- and toasted his memory, never forgetting that in a very real sense he started us on this particular part of our journey together.

Thanks pop!

Susie's Peanut Butter Graham Gateau at Gracie's

2009-12-30T13:28:00.002-05:00

This is just one of Susie's most recent "winter menu" deserts at Gracie's in Providence:

This consists of a peanut butter grahm cracker cake cake with a layer of peanut butter spread and a layer of chocolate glaze, topped with candied peanuts and a peanut graham cocoa nib florentine, sitting on a bed of chocolate sauce, graham cracker crumble and paired with a caramelized banana ice cream.

Bacaro and Chez Pascal

2009-12-06T16:01:00.003-05:00

Providence is a food town. If you’re not from here you can, of course, find yourself eating someplace where your food dollar (or euro) buys less than it should. (Think Atwell’s Avenue.) Anyway, we have really never had a bad meal in this city, and in fact the meals generally are way above average. Getting value for your dollar is the true test.

Take Bacaro and Chez Pascal as two shining examples of exceptional value. (photo below, interior of Chez Pascal.)

Bacaro is located smack on the river just before it heads into Narragansett Bay – the views are nice if you get a window seat, but the interior space is equally inviting and open to some spectacular people watching. Susie had eaten there with the rest of Gracie’s staff for their Christmas party last year but this was my first experience and we can give this place two very big thumbs up.

We decided almost at the last minute to go to Bacaro. A colleague at work had raved it about their pizza last Thursday and on Friday I had the good sense to make reservations for Friday evening. The restaurant’s automated reservation system worked well – and although we arrived a few minutes late we were quickly seated upstairs.

Along with the regular dining menu and wine list we were given a little pencil (like you might find at a miniature golf course) and a cheese and cold meats menu – much like a tapas menu. Everything comes from their own “salumi e formaggi” counter on the main level (the bar and casual dining area). I had an olive selection and an incredibly delicious cacciocavallo cheese plate – perfect for a starter. Susie ordered the Caesar Salad.

For the main course Susie ordered the spiced pumpkin pizza and I had the ditali in tomato sauce with veal meatballs. Needless to say (but I’m going to say it anyway) the food was wonderful. The crust on the pizza was perfect (rumor has it the chef had started out at Al Forno’s), the flavors enchanting – and I do not like anything remotely connected with pumpkin. But I liked this pizza. My ditali was cooked just right and the sauce rich without being heavy and the meatballs juicy and full of smooth veal flavor.

Bacaro’s has a very nice wine list, bent largely toward Italy, with prices being generally what you would see and expect in Providence. Which is to say I’d like to see lower wine prices here, particularly by the glass prices, but there’s just too much money to be made in alcohol.

The service was attentive and friendly, the staff overall managed a nice balance of being there when you needed.

Saturday Susan came home from work with news that Chez Pascal would be holding a local artists sale Sunday – along with a raffle to benefit the Rhode Island Food Bank. They would also have their mobile hot dog van (“Hewtin’s Dogs”) right outside to provide hot food since the restaurant would normally be closed Sunday mornings and afternoons. Chef Matt Gennuso makes his own dogs and sausages and has the tastiest condiment’s you’ve ever lathered onto a bun.

If you’ve never eaten at Chez Pascal this place needs to be on the top of your list. Owners Matt Gennuso and his wife Kristin operate the back and front of the house respectively. These two young people are incredibly hard working and exceptionally talented. Their food is Rhode Island fresh with a large twist of France thrown in for good measure. And Matt does his own charcuterie to boot. You won’t find a more pleasant person working the front of any restaurant than Kristin – her kindness just permeates the room.

Susie and I arrived around 1pm, ordered a couple of Mimosas and strolled the artist booths – we also bought a couple of raffle tickets. After checking out the art we sat at the bar (see photo above), I went outside and got us a pair of sausages, which we devoured in short order.

What a way to spend a Sunday afternoon.

Bacaro
262 South Water Street
Providence, RI
Phone: 401-751-3700
http://www.bacarorestaurant.net/home.html

Chez Pascal
960 Hope Street
Providence, RI
Phone: 401-421-4422
http://www.chez-pascal.com/

Sunday Brunch at Loie Fuller

2009-11-17T06:27:00.003-05:00

Providence is a food town and good, even great food is easy to stumble across. But there are few restaurants in the city or the state for that matter, with the look and feel of Loie Fuller.

Named after an American dancer who made her name and fortune in Paris, Loie Fuller (she was called "Louie" as a child but dropped the "u" when she moved abroad) is decorated, indeed styled inside and out, in the very traditional art nouveau style favored in Paris in the late 19th century. While some of the interior artwork smacks a bit of New Age, the woodwork is incredibly well-done, and feel of this place is at once homey and artsy at the same time.

Since we live right across the street, we often drop by for an aperitif but haven't eaten here for some months (the food has been inconsistent). The restaurant changed hands within the past year and is now operated by the former chef and his partner so now it's a very hands-on operation.

Anyway, we had heard good things about their new brunch (Sunday 10am-3pm) and wanted to give it a try.

We arrived around 11am and were the first ones seated. Service was friendly, attentive and pleasant.

The brunch menu is very limited but the items available spot on: poached eggs, omelet, beignets, French toast. While we sipped a pair of Mimosas we scanned down the small menu cards.

Susie ordered the omelet and I opted for the poached eggs with a side of hash browns. Both came with a delicious green salad with a mustard dressing reminiscent of meals we've eaten in Paris. The food was quite good although the hash browns were a bit odd: they consisted of two round thick patties of shredded potatoes that had apparently been deep fried and as a result were quite greasy with a heavy flavor of fried oil. I would not order them again.

By the time we left quite a few folks had come in. Four young men came in and were seated at a table next to us -- they sat there with their hats on while they discussed the food options at MacDonald's. Naturally.

To get a feel for the place visit them online; they have a nice 3D tour to give you a good view of the wonderful interior. But be warned you will have a hard time reading the wine list -- the font is a too cute and the size too small for the web.

Loie Fuller's
1455 Westminster Street
Providence, RI
401-273-4375
www.loiefullers.com

Red Stripe on the East side of Providence

2009-11-12T06:21:00.005-05:00

We returned safely from the notorious East side of Providence. Last evening we made a foray out into the wilds of the Wayland Square Area, a hotbed of urban chic and infamous for its overpriced land and trendy shops with names like "Runcible Spoon" -- "Runcible"?! A land where the Obama stickers on Volvo wagons are as prevalent as the boutique ice creams in the local grocery stores.

This also happens to be a land where you can find some very good food.

After a quick stop at Whole Foods (hey, just for bananas; we skipped the boutique ice creams) Susie and I parked the car on the street -- a risk I know on the East side -- and walked over to La Laiterie to (1) see if we could grab a table for dinner and (2) see if Susie could get her flexi-molds back from Matt Jennings. (He's the Matt part of the incredible Matt and Kate team that have turned the Farmstead Cheese shop and La Laterie cafe into two of the best reasons to head to the East Side for dinner.)

Since the wait was 30-40 minutes and nary a place to hang out in sight -- Susie opted to get her molds back another time -- we strolled over to Red Stripe, almost around the corner (well, two corners at least). We had had a drink her once before (while waiting for a table at La Laiterie no less) and thought we would give the place a chance.

The joint was, as they say, jumpin' -- a wee bit noisy but within reason. Anyway we opted to sit at the bar, which when you first walk in appears to be something like a quarter of a mile long. The bartender was friendly, candid (about the food, we didn't inquire about anything personal) and with a genuine smile at the ready for everyone.

We started with two glasses of Campari avec soda and ordered the calamari app. The drinks were generous and nicely done; the calamari, on the other hand, was tough, chewy, rubber-like, with almost dry casings. It was, to say the least, quite unappealing -- frankly it was "yucky."

We sent it back -- no replacement thank you -- and awaited the main course.

Here we were not disappointed: Susie got the cod loin wrapped in proscuitto on a bed of brown lentils; I went for the "steak frites." Both dishes were generously portioned and very tasty; my hanger steak was quite tender and Susie's cod was scrumptious.

The dessert menu lacked anything to tempt us -- fairly standard creme brulee, hot fudge sundae, that sort of thing.

Overall: very good service, friendly and attentive; reasonable prices, but off-balanced food.

Yeah, I'd say we should've waited for the table at La Laterie.

Red Stripe
465 Angell Street
Providence, RI 02906
401-437-6950 (for reservations)

Persimmon in Bristol

2009-08-11T20:55:00.002-04:00

A week ago this last Thursday Susie and I celebrated 26 years of marriage by going south toward the ocean but stopping short in Bristol.

We had an aperitif at the DeWolf Tavern overlooking the Bay and then dinner at Persimmon just up the street from the water.

Owned and operated by Chef Champe Speidel and his wife Lisa (she oversees the front of the house) we enjoyed an incredibly good meal and a glorious evening overall. We started out with a half bottle of Veuve Clicquot bubbly and for apps Susie had the crab salad and I opted for the risotto with fresh wild mushrooms. We both had the swordfish for the main course (plat), washed down with a Sancerre from the Loire Valley. For dessert Susie went for the banana cake and I had the cheese platter (one French and two American varieties). The service was on the same level of quality -- superb attention to detail, pleasant and welcoming all amidst a cozy environment made for a thoroughly enjoyable time.

Good value as well, with prices generally in the same range as one would find at the better Providence eateries.

Chez Pascal's Rooftop BBQ

2009-07-30T05:54:00.007-04:00

This past Sunday morning promised rain and certainly delivered humidity -- but by late afternoon the weather had turned overcast, with a hint of breeze. This made it ideal for an outdoor BBQ on the top of the Peerless Building in downtown Providence. (photo below: Susie's brother Dick and Susie)

The Peerless is one of the many old buildings "downcity" lovingly preserved and harboring condos instead of offices and workshops. And its rooftop garden, while not open to the public, is open to providing some pretty imaginative events. Gracie's uses a large plot of the roof for its own herb and vegetable garden, providing its customers with plenty of locally produced, homegrown tomatoes, peppers, edible flowers and the like. Today its a BBQ and wine tasting.

Chef Joe Hafner from Gracie's checking on his garden -- and enjoying the wine:

Matt Gennuso, his wife Kristen who run Chez Pascal on Hope Street teamed up with Leigh Ranucci and the staff at Eno's wine shop on Westminster Street, located right in the Peerless, to turn an ordinarily quiet, lazy Sunday afternoon in July into one fun and tasty affair.

Joe Hafner and Matt Gennuso, part of a small group of Providence chefs who are imaginative, dynamic and as-far-from-stodgy-as-you-can-get:

Chez Pascal provided the food, grilled sausage sandwiches with plenty of sides while Eno provided a tasting of wines from the Beaujolais province of France. Susie and I were joined by Dick and Dorothy and we met up with Andrea and her mom. The food was scrumptious, the wines just right, perfect for the day and for the food -- and clearly a good time was had by all.

You should have been there.

New Rivers - Restaurant Weeks stop 2

2009-07-25T17:45:00.004-04:00

OK, so last week we hit Chez Pascal in the tony East side and this last Wednesday we stopped by another favorite haunt: New Rivers on Steeple Street almost in the river that finds its way into the Narragansett Bay.

Chef/Owner Bruce Tillinghast and Executive Chef Beau Vestal represent the very epitome of what has made the restaurant business in Providence so damn special. They are hard-working and incredibly passionate about food (particularly French food and charcuterie even more so, if that's possible). But more than that these two and their finely picked staff always make you feel right at home -- they make each diner feel cozy and comfortable, as if to say "sit back, have some wine, relax, enjoy the food, and stay awhile."

Susie and I each started off with a La Bicicletta ("bicycle" in Italian), a combination Prosecco and Campari -- right up our aperitif alley. The drinks were ten bucks apiece but generous portions; we found ourselves sipping them well into the first course.

And speaking of courses we always opted for the second-week special RW prixe fixe menu for 30 bucks apiece.

We both had pork belly over cornbread for the first course and cod loin for the second. (Do fish really have "loins"? And if so do little fish spring from them I wonder?)

For dessert Susie had the and I had the marinated peaches with amaretti cookies and Susie had the ice cream with lavender shortbread.

To carefully wash all this down we sprung for a half bottle of Chablis.

The food was, and I'm not exaggerating here, absolutely delicious. Generous but not obscene portions, and we walked back to feeling not only pleased with a night well spent but just happy to have had the opportunity to go and enjoy such hospitality.

I could go on and on about this -- and believe me I've been known to do just that.

The long and short of it is, go to New Rivers, park along the park on Main Street, walk the block or so in the warm summer evening to a special place just down the hill from Beige University. Drop in, sit down and spend the evening.

And take your time.

Chez Pascal and Restaurant Weeks

2009-07-16T06:17:00.007-04:00

Well, it's that glorious time of the year in Providence when many of the local area restaurants, or "eateries," take the plunge and turn European for two weeks. That's right, they offer prix fixe menus, also known as formule in France, where the customer pays a flat rate for three courses.

Now, some of our better restaurants have made the switch to offering permanent prix-fixe menus already -- Gracie's, Nick's, New Rivers and Chez Pascal. But during "restaurant weeks" each restaurant (theoretically) puts together a special menu to attract new diners or bring old regulars back.

(In case you were wondering, it used to be called "restaurant week," like the programs in Boston, New York City. But they liked it so much here in Providence they added an extra week a couple of years ago.)

Now, we've had the three-course "bistro" menu at New Rivers and we've also done the three-course menu at Gracie's. We thought it was time to try the formule at Chez Pascal -- home of one of the best French bistro menus this side of the Bay of Biscay.

Let me say right from the start that Matt Gennuso not only knows what he's doing he seems to actually enjoy doing it for you. (Matt and his wife Kristin run this very incredible operation and are typical of the city's best chef-owners: young, imaginative, dynamic and passionate about food.)

If you've not been to this part of Providence you're in for a treat: it's quiet, very green and, like the restaurant itself, downright cozy.

Inside -- there is outdoor seating in season -- inside you'll find an ample bar, and plenty of tables in two different rooms. While the seating style is definitely French it is blessedly devoid of the uncomfortable proximity (you know, where the folks next to you are so close they can swipe their spoons in your soup). At Chez Pascal you feel like you want to just sit back, relax and take your time enjoying your meal.

The service was friendly without being annoying and our server, Regina was professional, and helpful with just the right degree of attentiveness. she seemed to know instinctively when it was time to pop by the table to check on things. nicely done.

Susie and I both had the "golden zucchini potage with rock shrimp" and it was delicious. A large bowl packed with fresh vegetables cooked to perfection in a scrumptious broth and the four shrimps were equally fresh and flavorful.

For the second course Susie had the grilled tri-tips of beef with a shoestring potato gratin and I had the pork loin with a blue cheese potato tart. Both were perfectly prepared and presented well -- but the proof, as they say is in the pudding. And here both dishes were jammed with flavors. My pork was sweet and tender and Susie's beef was tender and mouth-melting. The plates were scattered with nice-dice of vegetables which went a long way to help pick up the various juices.

For the dessert course Susie had the lemon souffle with blueberry compote and I had the mascarpone dome in a strawberry soup. Again that word comes to mind: incredible.

Oh, and the portions are generous and you will walk away from the table feeling not only sated but that you got your money's worth in the bargain.

All this food for $60 bucks or €43!

We did spring for two glasses of Lillet over ice when we sat down and a half bottle of a red Sancerre with dinner, which added a bit of a heft to the bill. But really, we had no choice.

It's France.

Waterman Grille

2009-07-13T06:41:00.003-04:00

We returned last evening to the Waterman Grille in Providence. Although we weren't terribly happy with our first outing here we decided to go back anyway.

The reason?

Location, location, location.

We had just left the movies after a late afternoon showing of the Taking of Pelham 123 in Lincoln. The original plan was to grab a pizza somewhere and head home. But the warm, inviting early evening sunset demanded that we stay outside somewhere. So we thought we'd give WG another shot.

Business was brisk but light when we walked in the door. We told the hostess we wanted to sit outside and that we would wait at the bar and have a drink. One Sangria later we were being ushered outside into the quiet of the evening and soon found ourselves sitting overlooking the Seekonk River.

We passed the evening chatting about one thing or another and watching a family of egrets finish their dinner along the riverbank before climbing up into a nearby tree where one assumes they would spend the night.

The service was pleasant, affable and openly but not overly friendly: everyone from the bartender to the hostess to the manager and the servers seemed determined to make our stay enjoyable. And so it was.

The food was tasty and well-prepared: Susie had the cod and I had a steak. Both dishes were nicely presented and we savored every bite. For a wine we splurged on a Meursault.

We skipped desserts -- and in fact we skipped the Restaurant Weeks menu although it was tempting. The dessert choices were, for us, the weak link. We did ask about their desserts and while some were made on -site, they got their frozen desserts from Gaga (sp?)and a number of other desserts from Sweet Creations (in Cranston?).

Thumbs up this time. But sit outside.

Back to Gracie's, again

2009-06-14T18:32:00.002-04:00

It's been a few months since I blogged here -- not that we haven't eaten out in Providence, it's just that I've been indolent about blogging our experiences.

But I wanted to share our recent experience back at Gracie's in the city. We joined our friends Richard and Pauline, who had just arrived from London. It was so good to see them again and of course we wanted to share one of the city's preeminent restaurants with them.

(OK, so Susie is the pastry chef there, that's true, I admit it. But it doesn't invalidate my point. Gracie's is great. Go see for yourself.)

The four of us arrived early on an overcast evening and were seated in a back booth. The hostess of Gracie's -- Schuyler -- greets everyone with a warm smile and a steady gaze. Lest you think she is a saccharine type one often finds working the front desk of supposedly upscale eateries, think again. There is nothing but sincerity in the grin you get when you walk in the door and shown to a table.

The evening passed in a flash. We all ordered the prixe fixe menu -- the boys got the crab and the girls the pasta for the main course (plat in Paris don't you know), paired nicely with a bottle of Saintsbury chardonnay. Service is one thing Gracie's prides itself on -- not fussy, not stiff, just there when you want them; not fawning over the table treating customers as if they were longlost relatives.

The food was delicious, competitively priced and with service unmatched in the city it's one of the solid bets in these trying times. (When aren't times trying though, eh?)

Thanks Richard and Pauline; may the gods send you on a safe journey through the deep south.

Ciao for now,

steve

New Year's Eve at Gracie's

2009-01-01T10:46:00.002-05:00

This is the simple slideshow version:

New Rivers in Providence

2008-12-18T07:31:00.006-05:00

This place has been around for nearly 20 years and is still offering the same incredibly delicious food and outstanding service.

Located along Steeple Street, literally a stone's throw from the hubs of Brown University and Rhode Island School of Design, New Rivers, run by Bruce Tillinghast and his phenomenal chef Beau Vestal, this place feels like a slice of rural France brought to the Ocean State.

If you think Susie and I liked this place you would be absolutely right. And obviously lots of other diners last Wednesday evening.

We had often heard how warm, cozy and inviting New Rivers is and no sooner had we walked inside that we learned just how perceptive those observations are. The restaurant is divided into three components: as you enter through the curtains you step from the hubbub of Downcity Providence into the quiet and warmth of a French country inn. The dining room is right ahead and to your right, to the left is a portal that leads you into a smaller dining space where the ceiling is festooned with grapevines carrying strands of small lights and stars -- a very nice touch -- and a small yet inviting bar. Back into the main dining room you have the kitchen -- small but extremely well laid out and clearly very efficient -- at the back of the restaurant.

OK, so Susie and I both ordered the three-course "bistro" menu ($28/person) -- which I believe is offered from Tues-Thurs. Susie had the spicy peanut soup and I had the pork rillete with baguette and pickled veggies. For the main course we both had the sirloin medium, over a bed of mashed Westport turnips and topped with shiitake mushrooms. Our wine was a 2001 Barbaresco from Carlo Giacosa. For the dessert portion we both had the almond cake and a couple of glasses of the muscat beaume de venise.

Simply put the food was superb: everything was delicious, well-presented and incredibly tasty. Service was friendly and attentive without being intrusive.

New Rivers is one place you must go when dining in Providence. I can't believe we've waited this long.

New Rivers
7 Steeple Street
Providence
401.751.0350

Loie Fuller and Radius

2008-12-15T06:11:00.005-05:00

Earlier this last week a group from Gracie's took the train -- actually the commuter rail -- to Boston for a farewell dinner for Adrien, Gracie's sous chef. He returns to Ireland later this month to begin the next phase of his life and career.

Anyway, it was bitter cold when we got off at South Station in Beantown and walked the block and a half or so to Radius, the restaurant chosen for the occasion.

Very nice layout, quite posh in fact, and as we entered the room one could see the most of the clientèle pretty much matched their surroundings -- frankly not my cup of tea.

The service was quite pleasant, wines were terrific and the food very good. Overall I'd have to say it was a fine trip but for one thing: the cost was easily 30-40% higher than in Providence. And frankly when something comes with fennel puree I shouldn't have to ask the staff where it is only to have them point out several tiny white dots on the plate. Anyway, Providence abounds with great food at good prices.

Saturday night we stopped in at Loie Fuller for an aperitif -- remember it's just across the street from our condo -- and ran into Maria Thomas and Rick Roberts, who apparently had similar ideas. We sat at the bar and chatted about one thing or another. Mostly about food and the good things life has to offer.

The restaurant business is a funny industry -- and I don't mean funny in the Seinfeld sense of the term. We've been going to Loie Fuller now with some regularity of late and yet no one says hello to us when we walk in the door, no "good to see you," no thanks for coming to our place (again!) or thanks for spending your money here rather than somewhere else. Not coming and not going.

Now lest you think we need constant affirmation of our existence or that we suffer from the Norman complex (Norma as in cheers I mean) or that we require some sort of special attention you would be patently and utterly wrong.

Look, one of the reasons to go out for dinner is to get that extra bit of special attention you normally wouldn't get at home. And to return to the same place again and again you just want an acknowledgment of thanks for choosing "us versus them." That's all.

Such things seem difficult for some places to do and Loie Fuller is one of them. Nice folks to be sure, very good food but generally the attitude seems to be fairly cold and aloof. At least it struck me that way recently.

Maybe it's a New England thing but I don't think so. And of course we can't rule out the possibility that they don't like us. But I doubt that's true. Chez Pascal treats you like you were a long-lost brother the moment you walk in the door, like they are genuinely glad to have you drop by for a bite to eat or a drink or two. And Gracie's, well they are known for their smooth service but also for their attention to detail designed to make you feel very special indeed.

Midweek at Gracie's

2008-12-04T06:30:00.008-05:00

It was the first Wednesday of December, the last month of 2008. I had arranged to meet with Andrea, a former wine sales person and now working as a rep for a small wine distributor in Rhode Island. Susie and I met her earlier this year at a Providence Palate event and she had recently approached Providence Palate with several ideas about how to make the organization more useful to its members. Presently PP is set up through the Ning.com social networking system -- lots of fun stuff to be sure but we're exploring ways to make it more informative and more effective in sharing information.

Anyway, we met at Gracie's ostensibly for wine flights -- but I had forgotten that wine flights was done for the year. Anyway, Susie soon joined us as did executive chef Joe Hafner and we all spent some serious quality time bouncing a variety of ideas around, ideas that would help both the customer as well as the food industry in these uncertain times.

After brainstorming for an hour or so over a glass of St. Veran we said arrivederci to Andrea. Susie and I opted to stay put and share a glass of red over a bowl of Rigatoni. Gracie's produces an incredible rigatoni and the sauce has to be tasted to be believed. It is hands down my (our) favorite dish there.

(photo: No Susie's Uncle Frank did not join us at Gracie's. This was taken at D & D's house last week, on Thanksgiving Day. I just think this not only typifies Frank but how we all felt that day. Thanks Dick and Dorothy!)

Chez Pascal

2008-11-30T17:21:00.005-05:00

Located in the tony eastern side of Providence, just a stone's throw from Swan Point cemetery where H. P. Lovecraft rests, Chez Pascal is an inviting and a place to rest your weary soul while eating great food in the bargain. If this all sounds a bit too good to be true, well it's not.

We drove the 10 minutes from the west end to the east side and parked on a sidestreet just around the corner from the restaurant. We walked inside and were immediately greeted by a women who seemed genuinely glad to see us. It was like we had come home.

We were shown a table near the bar and asked if we would perhaps rather sit in the next room where it might be a bit quieter. We obviously look like the quiet types. We said yes and were soon lingering and chatting over two glasses of chilled Lillet with lime.

The food is billed as French bistro style and from what little we know of that "style" of food Chez Pascal has it down to a science -- or rather an art.

For starters Susie had the soup special, which was a "rustic" soup of beans, chicken and vegetable sin an incredible rich broth. I had the flamiche - a torte of potatoes, sauerkraut and raclette cheese with their house made pork and fennel sausage accompanied by a sweet and spicy mustard sauce.

Known for their house pates and charcuterie, they also butcher their own whole pig out of which comes their sausage and, as I would soon experience, their pork "specials."

For the main course Susie had the Arctic Char and I had the pork "of the day": braised pork meatballs with a stew of fennel and onion, pork belly and leg of pork with soft polenta with Hannabell cheese. Accompanied by local greens and a Dijon sauce.

The portions are very large so be forewarned. But the prices are reasonable: dinner with aperitifs and a half bottle of red Sancerre came to $140 with tip. Service was good and the ambiance is wonderful.

Speaking of wines their wine selection is primarily French and plenty of good values to be had. Ask your server for suggestions.

Two very big thumbs up for us. We will definitely go back if for no other reason than to try their bistro menu: three courses for $30 per person. Served Tuesday through Thursday, the menu changes every week.

Chez Pascal
960 Hope Street
Providence, 02906
401.421.4422
You can find them one at: http://www.chez-pascal.com/

Wine flights at Gracie's

2008-11-20T07:17:00.006-05:00

Although there's a noticeable slowdown in restaurant activity during the middle of the work week, Gracie's still manages to draw a few interested parties in search of expanding their knowledge of wine.

Last Wednesday night Susie and I dropped by Gracie's -- well, OK she was just turning around and going back -- and spent a pleasant hour or so chatting with Anter, the resident wine guru, about a couple of wines he's suggesting for Thanksgiving: a chardonnay from the Cambria folks and a Viognier from France thank you very much.

The Viognier was crisp and very nice -- and the chef's tasting that came with the wines were absolutely scrumptious: the seared tuna perfect, the crab salad smooth and the fruit crips and pcked with flavor.

But it was when the conversation shifted to digestivi and aperitivi that things really got interesting.

Anter gave us samples of chilled Lillet rouge straight up with a twist of orange and this was followed by chilled Lillet blanc with a twist of lime. Either one would be a wonderful way to kick off a meal.

In fact, it struck me that when you're at a place like Gracie's, where you want to relax and savor your evening consider the following:

First, order an aperitif and be sure to ask for something you've never had before. Then close your eyes and just try and focus on the drink and nothing else.
Follow this with a starter course, matched with something white and crisp (probably).
Then with your entree (or, oddly enough, a plat in France) have a glass of red or white, either by preference or maybe a suggestion from the server with your particular choice of food.
With the final course, dessert of course, have a glass of Muscat Beaumes de Venise or ask for a recommendation.
Finish off the evening with a glass of Averna.

Anyway, while we savored the last of our wines, a young couple, easily half our age, came and sat at the other end of the bar and said they want the wine flights. Anter smoothly shifted himself down their way and began by letting them sample some Lillet rouge and Lillet white and he was soon into his element again -- talking about the wonderful ways in which wine and their various derivatives can make a meal a truly wonderful experience.

Tini's

2008-11-14T05:44:00.005-05:00

Tini's is the latest concept from George Germon and Johanne Kileen, owners of Al Forno in Providence, and one of the driving forces behind the city's incredibly successful food revolution.

Quick review: space a bit cramped, the starters were quite good (ask for the french fries' sauces on the side), service friendly but sloppy, and the electronic menu we found discomfiting and tiresome after the first ten minutes.

Long-winded review: Wedged between Gracie's at one corner and Bravo bistro on the other Tini's is tiny to be sure. Arranged like a sushi bar, you sit in a horseshoe around the central aisle which is both the bar and serving area. Nice, short but sweet wine list with several offerings by the glass. Reasonable prices. Reminiscent of Parisian bistros where the only menu is on a chalkboard on a wall or freestanding, Tini's menu is on an electronic chalkboard, a TV mounted high up on one wall.

In fact, this rather awkward menu is just one of several uncomfortable things we experienced there last evening. Certainly it is a cool idea -- but if you are sitting on one side of the bar you have to turn and crane your neck upwards in order to see the menu -- and even from our vantage point on the other side we soon discovered that if you wanted to read something specific on the menu you had to sit and wait for it to scroll around again (and again and again). We thought just having a printed menu to supplement the TV concept would have made our lives a bit simpler.

Anyway, we arrived early -- probably a little before six -- and easily found two stools at the bar. (There are narrow seating pads located beneath the two large front windows.)

We ordered two drinks, "The Vespa," but without the gin, so it was the Nino Franco "Faive" prosecco and campari. The bartender ran out of campari after barely pouring one drink but went ahead and poured the prosecco anyway, saying she would "add the campari in later" -- which she did by splashing in just a bit of the aperitivo when the new bottle arrived. That was sloppy enough and so was the fact they charged us for the gin but when we brought it to their attention there was a flurry of confusion over how to resolve this. We just waived it and said to forget it.

We eventually ordered two apps: Susie got the gruyere fondue and I got the french fries. The food was delicious, although if you are uncertain how you feel about mayo and hot sauce on your french fries then by all means ask for the sauces on the side.

Overall, we give it a thumbs up but with one or two qualifications. The folks behind the bar were nice kids but the service was slipshod, and while the TV concept is cool give us a printed menu too.

Tini's
200 Washington Street
providence
401.383.3400

Loie Fuller

2008-11-02T09:15:00.003-05:00

After a long drive to and from south central Vermont on Saturday we were in no mood to cook at home when we got back to Providence. So we walked across the street to Loie Fuller for dinner.

Now we had eaten there once before a few months back and had been disappointed -- somewhat in the food but mainly in the owner's attitude.

Well it is under new ownership and we give it a big thumbs up.

The place was packed -- as it usually is -- but we were given a table for two straightaway, one of the last open spaces in the cozy dining room.

For starters I ordered the potato raclette (with cornichons as it turned out) and Susie had the Israeli couscous with mushrooms. For our main course Susie ordered the sole filet with pureed potato an brussels sprouts and I had the veggie pot pie with winter root vegetables.

Both courses were delicious and well-priced (mid-teens for the entrees). Wines by the glass and by the bottle were also well-priced and seemed to be good value. We each had a glass of the Macon-Lugny chardonnay for 8 bucks apiece and the bottle went for I believe $26 -- retail is in the low teens. Not bad.

We will not only go back for dinner occasionally but hope to make it a point of refuge and just sit at the bar and have a glass of wine before dinner at home.

I'd suggest calling for reservations, particularly for three or more.

Loie Fuller
1455 Westminster Street
Providence
401.273.4375

Girl Scouts of Rhode Island

2008-10-29T06:49:00.001-04:00

Gracie's, a replay

2008-10-25T11:24:00.002-04:00

I posted some of these images earlier this year -- but this, please note, is an entirely different "twist."

By the way, you can create stuff like this with your images at anmoto.com.

Tini's is open

2008-10-25T05:58:00.003-04:00

The much-awaited new restaurant by George Germon and Johanne Kileen, is open at last. Located on Westminster street, directly across from Tinity Rep, which is housed in the gorgeous Emery Majestic Theater, Tini's (as in the back half of Martini's) is wedged between Bravo Bustro at one corner and Gracie's at the other. While the space is incredibly small, in fact tiny, the interior is slick, modern and apparently the menu is presented via HiDef TV. Seating is at the bar only, very sush-like.

I hope to have a more reliable report soon.

Nick's on Broadway

2008-10-20T07:29:00.003-04:00

Sunday morning -- the place is packed (as usual) and the wait is more than a half hour (as usual). but it's only a three block walk from our home and the food is terrific so we stand in line and enjoy the loudness (sort of), the smells (assuredly) and the people watching.

We eventually get two seats at the counter -- our preference in fact -- give our order to the pleasant young woman standing across the counter from us and apparently oblivious to the chaos behind her, and commence to fuel ourselves up for the rest of the day.

Susie orders a half-order of French toast, one egg and crispy bacon. I get the bacon n' cheese (cheddar) omelet, wheat toast and a half order of pancakes. Look, you go to Nick's ya gotta splurge -- no half way there when it comes to food, no sirreee.

Delicious as always. The wait is nothing compared to the great food at the other end.

Lucky Garden on Smith Street

2008-10-17T20:48:00.008-04:00

It's been some weeks since I posted here. In fact, not since early August, I'm sorry to say. Anyway, we have eaten some pretty good in Paris in the interim -- and after we returned we had delicious pizza at Fellini's (again) and another scrumptious Sunday brunch at Nick's on Broadway (again) and a delectable dinner at Broadway Bistro (again). As you can see by my broad array of positive adjectives, it was all good food as usual and well worth your time and trouble not to mention your hard-earned bucks.

So in the spirit of going back to places we've been before, Friday I had the good fortune to join with the folks of the Johnson & Wales University Web Team and visit Lucky Garden on Smith Street for a lunch of epic proportions.

Name this person

2008-08-04T12:17:00.002-04:00

This young woman works at a restaurant in downtown Providence. What's the restaurant and who is she?

Broadway Bistro for a family outing

2008-08-02T12:12:00.003-04:00

Friday night, August 1, Susie and I met up with six members of her large and very extended family for an early dinner at the Broadway Bistro. (They were coming up from OCS graduation in Newport on their way back to CT.)

Service was very good -- although the place filled up nicely by the time we left, we were never left feeling unattended. Food, as always, was delicious -- I had the gnocchi, which were quite large, in a scrumptious meat sauce. Most of the group had the Fish fry on risotto that evening -- lightly battered and fried they were a really big hit.

Again, you can go wrong here. 205 Broadway. Go tonight.

Gracie's Rooftop Garden

2008-08-01T18:28:00.000-04:00

As more restaurants seek to establish a solid foundation on using local growers, at least one place has added a unique twist: Gracie's has set up its own rooftop herb and vegetable garden on top of the Peerless Building in downtown Pprovidence. How cool is that?

Gracie's wine flight

2008-08-01T06:21:00.006-04:00

This past Wednesday Susie and I dropped by Gracie's -- well for her she simply came home, showered, changed clothes and returned to Gracie's. Anyway, we got in the car and drove the 3 or 4 minutes it took us to get to the restaurant.

It was quiet when we arrived but by the time we left the place was abuzz, mostly with folks either enjoying the wine flights or having a quiet drink and a light dinner in the lounge. We had no sooner sat down at the bar than the rest of the seats quickly filled up with small groups, mostly friends it seemed to me, there to enjoy an evening sharing food and wine.

The wines this past Wednesday were all reds, Malbecs from South America: two from Argentina and one from Chile.

For the food pairings Joel in the back of the house prepared steak, duck and added a hard unpasteurized cow's milk cheese from Wisconsin to the chef's tasting portion of the wine flights. Incredibly good match we thought later.

Over the years we've been underwhelmed with the handful of New World wines from south of the equator -- but this evening we learned how wrong we could be. The Chilean Escudo Rojo 2005 was the starter and it was a superb example of what happens when the French start dabbling in wines abroad: in this case the Rothschild family from Bordeaux. This wine had a pleasant nose and while it was a bit jammy on the palate it was very nicely matched with the food; this was followed by the Argentinian Les Perdices, a lesser wine we thought but not unpleasant, and finally the Luca Malbec, another delicious wine which was a superb match with the food, particularly the steak.

After wine flights we couldn't bring ourselves to leave -- it was comfortable and cozy so we decided to stay put and have dinner. A wonderful treat. Susie had the soup and a salad. I had steak and pommes du terre two ways.

Gracie's Chefs in the kitchen

2008-07-30T18:26:00.000-04:00

Well, it's not all of them -- just Executive Chef Joe Hafner and Pastry Chef Susan VandenBerg, crafting some tart dough for a small but attentive audience this past February. You really should've been there. . .

Just in case you forgot -- dessert at Gracie's

2008-07-28T18:23:00.002-04:00

Like the title says, just in case you forgot what really, I mean really good desserts can look like -- remember this incredible semi-freddo concoction crafted together by my wife, the pastry chef at Gracie's -- like you didn't know that by now, right?

MuMu's - again

2008-07-26T07:46:00.000-04:00

Last Wednesday, after wine flights Susie and I headed out for dinner before going home -- sort of a routine for us I suppose, after the delicious apps at Gracie's to go out and try someplace new. Well, we didn't go anyplace new that night but we did reutrn to one of our favorite Asian restaurants, MuMu's on Atwell's Avenue smack in the middle of Federal Hill.

Surrounded by the traditional psuedo-Italian cuisines ensconced on Atwell's, nothing strictly regional about any of the places up there now, MuMu's serves up delicious Chinese food at a reasonable cost. Good service, nice ambiance, it's a great place to stop for a meal before heading home.

Susie opted for a basic noodle dish but I was hankering for King Pao Chicken:

I couldn't help myself but had to order this dish -- shredded potato with scallions and chili peppers. The potatoes were incredibly light, yet just a hint of al dente, with a nice piccante finish.

Leaving us with a couple of lunches in the bargain!

We did skip the "Chucky Chicken" though. . .

Gracie's Wine Flights - again

2008-07-24T07:21:00.006-04:00

Last night, Wednesday night, was that midweek food-and-wine break so many of us long for: the wine flights at Gracie's in Providence. Sitting at the cozy bar, quiet conversations scattered around the room, with a short line of three large wine glasses just off to one side and a matched trio of Chef Joe Hafner's tasting treats, it's hard to think of a better way to spend the middle of the week.

Susie and I have been pretty regular in hitting the wine flights -- and we must say the last several weeks have proven even better than usual.

Last week the tasting revolved around three incredible wines from Portugal (thinking of you Dan Foley): a bright and crisp Vinho Verde from Twin Vine, a spectacular Douro (2005) from Churchill Estates and a 10-year-old Tawny from Graham's.

The wines last night were equally incredible: a David Bruce Petit Syrah, a merlot from Floral Springs and the "337" Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa Valley. These three were neither terribly jammy nor were they too forward or big-bodied, but just right for our tastes. The wines certainly matched just right for the scrumptious threesome that came out of the kitchen: a light truffle mushroom consommé, duck (photo below) and a ham n' cheese croquette (photo above). I find it remarkable that these tastings are put together just for the wines and just for the wine flight for that night -- these are not on menu.

All for ten bucks a person.

If it sounds like I'm a shill for the restaurant -- after all my wife does work there -- you may be right. But that fact does not invalidate my conclusion: these midweek wine flights are not only great value, bang-for-your-buck kind of value, but they are eye-opening, palate-expanding experiences and, if you like wine, should not be missed.

Hey, you don't believe me? Try it for yourself.

Z Bar & Grille on Wickenden Street

2008-07-01T05:58:00.004-04:00

The second "Monday Night Raid" by members of providencepalate.com was held last evening, Monday (of course), at the Z Bar & Grille on Wickenden street. Located at the corner of Wickenden and Brook street in a funky neighborhood on the east side of Providence, the Z Bar has one very cool thing going for it: outdoor dining in its own little garden out back.

Even though Monday was hot and steamy, by the time the sun went down and we arrived at the Z Bar, the air had turned noticeably cooler and there were pleasant breezes to be had virtually everywhere in the city.

Anyway, there were eight of us from providencepalate.com there to talk food, wine, weather, food, Providence, Providence food, New York City food, Rhode island food, various Asian foods, and pretty much food. Rich Lang, who, along with Seth Price was one of the co-creators of providencepalate.com, served as the group's gentle moderator. But when you get that many serious food folks together around one table, there's little you can do but sit back and watch the action. Plenty of incredible information and experiences were shared that evening and frankly I'm already looking forward to the next event.

(In case, you're wondering: with so many restaurants in the Providence area closed on Mondays Rich thought it would be a good idea for some of the members of providencepalate.com to get together and support those handful that make the effort to stay open. Certainly makes sense to me.)

As I said the Z-Bar has this great garden out back and I would easily suggest you give them a try -- but stick to the salads and lighter fare. Susie had the Caesar which she thought very tasty, followed by the crabcake (appetizer menu). I had the "tenderloin" meatloaf and it was OK -- not, however, anywhere near as good as Pat's at Broadway Bistro though -- and the potatoes seemed quite bland to me. The Garlic mashed potatoes cried out for garlic and in fact tasted like plain old mashed potatoes that need a bit of salt and pepper. The only other potato available were oven roasted wedges that seemed oddly prepared -- they looked almost as if they were uncooked on the top but seemed tender enough -- they also tasted quite bland.

The wine list was unimpressive and generally unexciting, with too few wines by the glass and the few available mostly typical California jug wines (Trinchero and J Lohr for example). Too bad, since Campus Wines is right around the corner and I thought Z-Bar was one of their main locations for occasional tastings.

All the wines were served in the same small balloon glass, typical of lower end restaurants. Oh, and the by-the-glass prices were comparable to Gracie's where the wines are more interesting and the glassware much nicer! Remember, that's why we're going out in the first place -- the experience is a large part of the meal. If I want something more basic I'll go to Stanley's. One other thing: both of my Campari and sodas seemed heavier on the latter -- and at 7 bucks a glass that's expensive club soda.

Our server George was friendly, attentive and tired to make the best of a couple of glitches during the meal.

So go for the garden seating, order a Caesar and stick with a glass of sparkling water. For a different perspective, check out Meredith Ford's review.

Z Bar & Grille
244 Wickenden Street
401.831.1566

Gracie's wine flights

2008-06-26T06:18:00.003-04:00

Well it's been a few weeks since I last posted about the wine flights at Gracie's. Even though Brendan, Gracie's present wine guru and bar manager will be moving on to California next week, the wine flights will continue under the watchful eye of Anter, the new bar manager.

Anyway, the new list of the tastings is out -- just click here for the latest schedule.

So Susie's brother Dick -- bachelor for a week while his wife is visiting family in Washington State -- drove down to our place Wednesday late afternoon and the three of us drove to Gracie's for wine flights. Dick had never been to the wine flights before and since he is rather passionate about wine we thought it was high time he experience the Wednesday night event firsthand.

The wines presented last evening were three "summer wines for the porch," all white wines as you might assume: A soave classico from northern Italy, a vouvray from the Loire and a rose from the Languedoc. These were nicely matched with a chef's tasting of three shrimp dishes: poached shrimp, light tempura shrimp and roasted shrimp. The vouvray, for me the most forward of the three wines, smoothed out quite nicely with the tempura shrimp I thought.

Once again the back end of the house at Gracie's did a bang-up job on presenting what are really just three very small dishes -- but the with the kind of attention to detail, meticulous preparation and attractive presentation that has become a hallmark of one of Providence's signature restaurants.

Yes, yes, it's absolutely true that my wife is the pastry chef at Gracie's. But that one fact does not in any way invalidate my conclusions.

If you don't believe me, go and see for yourself. At 10 bucks that's a steal, for an opportunity to sit at a comfortable bar, chatting about wine and food with people of like mind, is not a bad deal at all.

Geppetto's on Federal Hill

2008-06-26T05:56:00.003-04:00

Well more specifically, this pizzeria is located smack at one end of DePasquale Square, which is a small slice of common property closed to traffic wedged between Atwell's Avenue and Spruce Street.

Anyway, Geppetto's is next door to Cafe Dolce Vita and just a stones throw from Constanino's and Venda Ravioli -- all perennial favorites with the Federal Hill groupies.

Last night, Wednesday, all the the restaurants on DePasquale Square and beyond had their outdoor tables set up and the places were packed by the time we finished eating. It was a gorgeous evening when we left Gracie's after wine flights (see my other post on that) and Susie, her brother Dick and I drove to Atwell's just so we could fight the traffic and grab some pizza.

We found parking with ease on one of the side streets and walked two blocks to Geppetto's. The place was filled with extras from the Sopranos and the servers were all young women wearing very little black things with thongs popping out, tattoos in wide abundance and naval piercing accessories also on display.

(We all wondered if the hiring process look something like: "OK that's fine you've got four years of experience, but are willing to show lots of flesh and are your pierced anywhere that you wouldn't mind showing to folks as they sit down?")

Anyway, we each ordered a different 10-inch personal grilled pizza: I got the "bolognese" special, Susie the "old world" and Dick the Mediterranean. The crusts were all nicely done but that's pretty all we could say about them -- the slight toppings were all equally bland and pretty much devoid of flavor. Nor could we detect any spice or herb seasoning.

The wine list was paltry and pricey while the few beers offered were generic; the astounding thing was that pitchers of Sangria were $25 bucks! Incredible we thought. Service was pleasant but typical of these sorts of places.

Aside from the location there is absolutely nothing redeeming to justify the trip or spending the money. Or fighting the traffic for that matter.

The hunt goes on.

Minh Hai in Cranston

2008-06-05T06:04:00.009-04:00

Let me say right up front that Susan and I both thought this a pleasing, almost calming dining experience. I'll comeback to that in a moment.

It was after the Wednesday night wine flights at Gracie's that we opted to try this little Vietnamese restaurant tucked away in a small strip mall on Park avenue in Cranston. (photo: sliced beets)

The wines that evening were quite nice -- the theme was sparkling and we had a blanc des blanc from France (Francois Montand, very tasty), Sergio Mionetto prosecco from Italy and -- get this -- a blanc des noir from New Mexico, bit thin but not half bad. Chef Joe paired these up very nicely with a scrumptious pulled pork tasty of sweet maple topped with jicama (?), watermelon and a bit of cilantro, a mussel soup and tuna tartare (photo below). You really should have been there.

So we left Gracie's head for Cranston -- all of a 10 minute drive I suppose, from downtown Providence -- where we found Minh Hai quietly awaiting our arrival.

Now this place had been suggested to us by a colleague Peggy -- she's a freelance graphic designer and has a real idea for food in general and Asian food in particular. Anyway, Peggy also provided us with a copy of the menu and some of the items she and her family routinely order when they go.

The folks running this place were not only very pleasant but had a true affinity for putting you right at ease -- and Mr. Minh himself perhaps -- was kind enough to give us language lessons and help us through the menu. He was patient, always smiling and, in two words, simply friendly.

Already we felt good about this place.

We ordered the Goi Bo as a starter. A sicy grilled beef salad with pickled carrots, daikon (a radish I believe) celery, cilantro and mint leaves finished in a delicious smoky dressing. Peggy had suggested this and she was right on the money.

Susan had the Banh hoi Cha Gio, basically thin noodles with grilled beef slices and two imperial rolls (each cut in half).

I ordered the Com Chon Bo, grilled pork slices with lemon grass and sesame seeds with special rice and a salad.

The food was well-prepared and presented nicely but most importantly it tasted even better than it looked. The meats were tender, the starches cooked to perfection and the imperial rolls worth the drive alone. And there was plenty to take home.

The bill came to $40 with tip (we didn't order beer or wine).

This is a quick and easy drive from our house and close to my favorite Chinese markets in the Providence area, another excuse for stopping here!

You can access their menu one -- just click here!

Minh Hai
1096 Park Avenue
Cranston, RI 02910
ph: 401.383.8071

Waterman Grille in Providence

2008-06-03T06:01:00.006-04:00

To finish off our leisurely tour of waterfront dining in eastern Rhode Island, we ate dinner last Sunday evening at the Waterman Grille, on the East Side of Providence.

Situated on the western bank of the Seekonk River, the Waterman Grille has the look and feel of a chic, hip restaurant but yet it still felt comfortable and soothing. It probably was the water. In fact most of the indoor seating has a nice view of the river, in fact many tables were positioned right next to windows that opened up to the outside. Nice touch. And outdoor seating was available: a single line of tables ringing the water side of the restaurant.

We ordered two aperitifs while we studied the menus. For starters we split the cheese appetizer.

Susie ordered crab cake appetizers and the Waterman salad, while I chose the pressed sandwich: a grilled panini: rosemary ham, grilled chicken, sharp provolone, pesto, and peppers on a grilled ciabatta roll, with steak fries. We each had a glass of wine.

Ambiance was pleasant, service slow but friendly although in an oddly uncomfortable sort of way -- our waiter kept hunching over as if he were getting ready to impart some confidential story to us -- while another of the waitstaff near our table was very loud and quite chatty with customers. Oh, and our waiter told us one thing on the menu was no longer available yet 20 minutes later it was served to a table near ours. Strange we thought. Aside from the skimpy cheese plate -- ten bucks for very little cheese and even less "crisps" -- the food delicious and portions substantial.

We thought the drink prices steep. A third of the bill -- with tip mind you -- came from two glasses of white wine and two aperitifs. That's a bit high we thought. And speaking of prices we felt that charging more than five bucks for a side of fries was high as well.

Cost? $90 with tip.

Would we go back? With all the other places to eat in providence, I think not. Certainly not for the views. If I want waterfront I'll drive to Bristol or Tiverton. Nor for the service or food, which was pretty much like the menus you can find all over the state. and the prices we thought high.

I should also point out that reservations at the Waterman Grille are made through the Open Table dining reservation website. Very slick and easy to use they also send you a confirmation via email within minutes of making the reservation.

You can find out more online by clicking here!

The Boathouse in Tiverton

2008-06-02T05:56:00.004-04:00

Barely a 20 minute drive from the west side of Providence, the Boathouse is located along the eastern side of Mount Hope Bay with views facing due west toward Bristol. It was a gorgeous Sunday morning and we could only imagine the dramatic sunset views one would get in the evening.

There was plenty of outdoor dining was available at both ends of the restaurant, while all the windows facing the bay opened – through a very slick mechanism – to give the inside diners a sense of being outside. It reminded us of Paris in fact, where many of the city’s bistros do the very same thing in the summer months. We opted to sit inside and chose a table with a grand view of the water. The overall feel of the place was cozy and relaxing.

After we sat down we ordered a pair of Mimosas and savored the views while we examined the menus. Susan ordered a cheese omelet.

I chose the sandwich special: fried egg on a brioche roll with sweet red peppers, caramelized onions and cheese. Both plates came with hash browns.

With tip the meal came to $43.

We both agreed that the service was friendly, attentive without being overly familiar, and that the food was tasty and seemed to be just the right size portions. The views were also very nice. No question we would go back.

I should also point out that reservations at The Boathouse are made through the Open Table dining reservation website. Very slick and easy to use they also send you a confirmation via email within minutes of making the reservation.

You can find out more online by clicking here!

Lucky Garden

2008-05-29T07:21:00.002-04:00

I remember years ago spending a night in Rock Springs, Wyoming, on my way from Chicago to San Fransisco. I was amazed at how many Chinese restaurants there were in this very small town in the middle of nowhere. I learned that evening that the reason really was quite simple: these were the descendants of the thousands of Chinese that worked on the railroads in that part of the country in the 19th century.

Chinese food is to be found virtually everywhere in the US, and if you want some of the best Chinese food in Providence, you will want to stop by the Lucky Garden on Smith street in North Providence.

Please note that I mean Chinese, not Japanese or Korean or Pan-Asian or Thai or Vietnamese, but Chinese. Like Italian there is no such thing as Chinese since each region has its own type of cuisine and they differ greatly from one region to another. And at the Lucky Garden you can find both Sichan/Hunan styles as well as "Chinatown" style of cooking. For a sampling of their menus, just click here.

It was quiet evening at the Lucky Garden this past Wednesday when we dropped by after wine flights at Gracie's. Tucked into a tiny strip mall along Smith Street this place is quite unassuming but once you walk inside the family -- and this is very much a family operation -- the family makes you feel right at home.

This place had been suggested to me by two Chinese who said it was hands-down the best, most authentic Chinese cuisine in the city. We certainly were not disappointed.

We started off with their home-made scallion pancakes and a spring roll, then ordered the crispy ("pan-friend") noodles and Chinese broccoli. The noodles were cooked to perfection and the sauce the right degree of viscosity -- and bits of chicken, pork and seafood very tasty indeed. Neither one of us had ever had the broccoli before and found it slightly bitter but the stems were delicious. Prices are reasonable and service friendly and the ambiance enjoyable. Small list of wines and beers.

Oh and this all made a great second meal the next night, if you get my drift.

Oh, and they are also serve a dim sum brunch on Saturday and Sundays. Now that would be worth a return trip for sure!

Closed Mondays,
Tu-Th 11:30-10:00
Fr-Sat 11:00-11:00
Sun 11:00-10:00

1852 Smith Street
North Providence

Loïe Fuller in Providence

2008-05-23T07:11:00.008-04:00

The wine flights at Gracie's on Wednesday evening has become, for us at any rate, a great way to break the week up, and occasionally we will grab a bite to eat somewhere afterwards.

So it was this last Wednesday. when we finally walked across the street from our condo and ate . After tasting three wines at Gracie's, along with a chef's pairing to match, we went home, parked the car and then just walked a few meters cross Westminster and . . . Voila! There we were at Loïe Fuller, a small but cozy restaurant with an incredible art nouveau style that would make any Paris bistro green (or brown) with envy. If you must know Loïe Fuller, pronouced Louie or Loh-ahy or whatever makes you feel comfortable, is named after an American dancer who lived, loved and died of breast cancer in 1928 in Paris. (Her ashes were placed in niche no. 5382 in the Columbarium at Pere Lachaise.)

Anyway, there's been plenty of press about this place recently, in the Providence Phoenix and Rhode Island Monthly to name just two, and all of it good. Plus, everybody we've spoken with also gave it high marks as well so what could go wrong?

More than we bargained for, I'm afraid.

The ambiance is incredible to be sure -- and frankly it's worth the trip just to ogle the art nouveau decor and fantastic paintings on the walls. The numerous mirrored murals also give the dining room a greater sense of space and don't forget to look up -- the ceiling and central light is not to be missed either.

The servers, all women dressed in casually elegant black, were friendly, courteous and attentive; and the service prompt.

But two things marred the evening for us.

The food first. I ordered the steak frites and while the meat was a bit overcooked, it was tender, flavorful and the dipping sauce quite tasty. The frites were equally delicious and the portion substantial. Susie ordered a cheese-pistachio ravioli in balsamic vinegar. The dish came out with a large number of ravioli swimming in several tablespoons of oily balsamic vinegar. As if that wasn't off-putting enough, the ravioli filling was overly cheesy with a greasy texture and not terribly enjoyable. (We both agreed on these points.)

I flagged the hostess down -- not our server -- and described our concern with the ravioli. She was pleasant enough but informed us "that's the way it always comes out." I'm not sure if we were supposed to say, "Oh, well in that case I'll go ahead and eat it even though I find it quite unpleasant." Anyway, the server came by and asked if there was something else Susan would like. She thought for a moment and then ordered a simple side of the sauteed green beans. What could go wrong?

Now for anyone who goes to the grocery store around Providence, you know that the green beans are, well let's just say, far from being optimal for eating. Anyway, that's pretty much what we thought about the second dish. The preparation was quite good we observed but the beans were lacking in flavor and seemed rather tough. When our server came by to ask about the beans we of course had to break the news to her.

By this time an interesting dynamic had taken hold of the staff. When we first entered the restaurant we were upbeat and, I thought, had some very friendly banter going with the wait staff. By this time, however, they were still pleasant to be sure, but seemed aloof, distant and perfunctory.

Nevertheless, as we neared the end of the meal we agreed that aside from this evening's food hiccups -- and hey, it can happen to the best of restaurants -- we would come back.

Until we got the bill that is.

The server came by and explained that the "owner only charged you half price for the ravioli and we're sorry it didn't work out." She then hurried off.

Half-price?! In our opinion, we shouldn't have been charged for the ravioli at all. Stranger still, they took the ravioli away and said "do you want something else?" and subsequently charged us for that as well! We should have been informed that we were going to be charged for the original dish.

We concluded that even though it's right across the street from our home, we'd rather walk to Nick's on Broadway or drive to Broadway Bistro or MuMu's on Atwell's Ave. There are simply too many other places "hungry" for our dining dollar.

I don't think we'll be going back to Loïe Fuller anytime soon.

MuMu's and Pastiche on Federal Hill

2008-05-14T07:01:00.000-04:00

Unlike the unpleasant dining experience at Cuban Revolution last Wednesday, we had a completely enjoyable dining adventure last Friday night.

After another long baking day for Susie we had an aperitif at Gracie's and since the evening was getting away from us we thought we'd try MuMu's Chinese restaurant on Federal Hill.

Chef Joe Hafner and Kelly and several others at Gracie's raved about how good the food is at this place -- and they were right.

No doubt about it, this was some of the best Chinese food either one of us have ever tasted. Spring rolls were perfectly crisp with a light wrap and fresh ingredients inside, and the entrees were equally scrumptious: very tasty, lots of flavor and heat as advertised. Priced right as well.

Word is they deliver but cannot confirm that yet. But trust me, we'll be back. . .

From MuMu's we walked over to Pastiche, just around the corner de De Pasquale Square ("piazza de Pasquale" in italiano I suppose), and grabbed a table by the front window. The desserts were nice, although the Lime Merinque seemed quite "airy" to both of us, and my Italian Mascarpone Chocolate Cake was very moist with a wonderful texture but the flavor was quite neutral for my taste; it seemed to lack any real chocolate flavor. The "Italian" coffees were perfect, and even though the "joint was hoppin'" the service prompt, efficient and friendly. Yes, it's true the prices are a bit high -- but hey, life's full of tradeoffs.

We'll go back. so much more to try. Now if they would just make brioche con crema or bombolone. . .

Parking is at a premium for both of these places so you might want to plan accordingly.

MuMu
220 Atwell's Ave.
Providence
401.369.7040

Pastiche
92 Spruce Street
Providence
401.861.5190
Closed Monday.
See their website for hours, etc.

A Cuban Revolution in Providence

2008-05-13T18:44:00.004-04:00

After the wine flights at Gracie's last Wednesday we thought we'd give their neighbor a try for a quick diner, so we went next door to Cuban Revolution to grab a sandwich before heading home. Needless to say it was quite a radical change from the Gracie's atmosphere of smooth jazz and warm vibes to very loud noise, lots of energy and marginally controlled chaos. (Note that this is the one downcity, not the one at Olneyville Square.)

In a nutshell the restaurant was a big disappointment. Food was so-so, a very skimpy "Cuban" sandwich that seemed to lack all of the ingredients, whereas Susan's wrap seemed to have been stuffed with just about everything imaginable. Sweet potato fries were soft and mushy, and, we thought, quite overpriced ($4 for a small dish).

But it was the service that was by far and away the worst part of the dinner.

Our server was a young woman who had no idea what she was doing or how to do it. She didn't know the menu, failed to bring us water when asked for, failed to put in our complete order (dropped the fries apparently) and this was all capped off when she presented us with two different bills! The check itself was for $27 and change, while the credit card receipt was for more than $44. Hmmm, that was curious I thought. Still, I'm not sure who to blame here: the poor server working her tail off, blissfully unaware of how she is botching so much along the way, or the management that put her there in the first place. Odd.

Anyway, I recall restaurants we've been to in the past, in particular a place called Charley's Crab in Grand Rapids, Michigan, where when a customer had a problem, it was either gone or not paid for. Or management would deal with it directly and do something to say to the customer, "Hey, we're sorry, mistakes do happen but here's a dessert" or whatever to ensure that you'll come back.

Frankly, there's too much damn good food in Providence to waste one's time on this sort of attitude. I don't think we'll be going back to Cuban Revolution anytime soon. Not until they overthrow the present regime anyway. . .

Nicks for breakfast

2008-05-04T13:17:00.003-04:00

And here's a different perspective:

Birthday dinner at Gracie's

2008-04-28T08:14:00.005-04:00

OK, so officially I completed my 60th year at 12:01 a.m. on Friday, the 25th of April. But I felt there was plenty of room for maneuver here since, hey it was my birthday, and we wanted to include our friend Valerie from Paris. She arrived Saturday early evening, and we wanted to take here out and show her the Providence culinary scene, so we just decided to arrange the Big Meal a day later, that's all.

Since I was unable to get my swiss steak dinner from my mother-in-law this weekend -- that's right, she makes the absolutely best swiss steak in the known universe -- I was willing to settle for dinner at Gracie's. . . and what a dinner it was!

Chef Joe put together a wonderful tasting menu for us -- after making sure what I liked and didn't like! For example, nothing from the phlegm family of seafood products. I knew I wanted some of his raw tuna and steak frites, beyond that I left it up to him.

The short of it is that we had, surprise! raw tuna to start (yeah!), gnocchi, pork belly, steak frites, a fantastic cheese course (always a favorite with me) and last, but by no means least, Susie made my favorite dessert: choux pastry filled with pastry creme and topped with chocolate ganache.

We had been a bit uncertain about which wines to have with which course. Shortly after sitting down, a little after 8:30 pm.., that particular challenge dissipated. We learned that our friends Stan and Margie from Michigan, working with Brendan, Gracie's wine guy, arranged the wine for dinner! We started out with Laurent Perrier rose champagne and for the early courses switched to Chassagne Montrachet, an incredible white wine from burgundy. For the meat courses we had a Lalande de Pomerol and a Shafer Hillside Select Cabernet.

Since there were only three of us we willingly shared the wines with the kitchen staff. They had certainly earned it believe me! Thanks Bryce, Joel, Adrian, Matt, Cara, all the wait staff -- kids kept coming by the table to wish me happy birthday -- and of course Chef Joe and Ellen for making it a truly memorable evening.

Indeed, what a grand night it was. Susie, Valerie and I ate, drank, and chatted for nearly four hours and ended up being the last ones to leave.

I couldn't have thought of a better way to have spent a wonderful birthday meal -- the only thing missing were good friends and family, scattered across the country. But it was certainly not a time to be maudlin but a time for rejoicing! And with each glass of wine we smiled and toasted Stan and Margie, who there in spirit, Dick and Dorothy -- who were hosting another birthday dinner Sunday -- and all our absent loved ones.

Thanks pop!

Lili Marlene's on Atwell's Avenue

2008-04-27T13:15:00.000-04:00

It was getting to be the tail end of my actual birth day date and since we had planned a serious, and I mean serious meal at Gracie's for Saturday night, I thought, hey let's keep it pretty simple on Friday. And what could be more simple in America, at least North America, than a hamburger and fries.

The challenge was to find the right place.

According to some in the city's culinary world, like Derek Wagner of Nick's on Broadway, when it comes to hamburgers there's one place to go in Providence and that's Lili Marlene's on Atwell's avenue. Named after the famous World War One song "Lili Marlene," which became perhaps the most popular song of World War Two for troops on both sides of the conflict, Lili's is down the hill a bit from the "trendy" part of Atwell's Avenue. Its dark atmosphere and cool music is just the right draw for anyone seeking to change one reality for another, if only for a short time.

The crowd was primarily young people, probably looking for love in all the wrong places -- but no matter. We settled at a table in the middle, and watched two guys play 8-ball on an exquisite table. And this was no bar table either. It had the curves any woman would be proud to call her own, and the pockets which quietly held the balls until they were removed by hand.

Anyway, a waitress soon came over to the table and asked us, "So how do you want your burgers?" My kind of place.

We placed our order -- medium burgers with swiss, bacon and onions -- and added a basket of fries -- Susie had a glass of wine and I had a beer.

It was that simple. And, as things turned out, that good.

The burgers were just like I would have made at home: thick, juicy, great bun, and the fries were perfect, seemed extra crispy to both of us, and not as in overcooked but just, well, extra crispy and delicious.

Parking was easy, right on the street, even though it was a Friday night. As I said, all the hubbub was a few blocks east on Atwell's. The fools. If only they knew. . .

Lili Marlene's
422 Atwell's Avenue, click here for a map and directions
Just drop in.

El Rancho Grande on Plainfield

2008-04-26T13:16:00.008-04:00

Friday, 25 April I completed 60 years of life. Hey it's just another number my dad would say -- and of course he would be right. But somehow such benchmarks serve a very real purpose: to keep us on our toes about the importance of enjoying life. After all, someday we will be drooling for a living and we want to have some pretty good memories to look back on as we bounce our wheelchair from one side of the assisted living dining room to another.

Right?

Well let's hope it's not that bad.

Anyway, it was a beautiful day, sunny and warm, hinting that maybe, just maybe spring had in fact arrived. Susie was working long and hard to try and get a little ahead of things for the weekend -- our friend Valerie is scheduled to arrive Saturday evening and we wanted to have plenty of quality time to spend with her.

So I spent Friday morning catching up on some chores at home and by midday thought I would stop and have lunch out somewhere. I had heard and read (thanks to the tomato soup blog) some very good things about El Rancho Grande, and since it's on Plainfield avenue, just a five minute drive from our condo, I thought I would check them out.

Right after I sat down the server brought out a small bowl of homemade chips and salsa. As reported in the tomato soup blog the salsa is indeed unique and nothing quite like anything I've had before. (Of course I am no expert on this type of cuisine. or any type come to think of it.) Somewhat piccante, a bit, just a bit sweet, very pleasant texture. And the chips were delicious too.

Anyway, I had a fairly simple lunch: one tamale classic, which I found very pleasant, one chicken taco, soft and a bit awkward to handle and a side of refried beans. The beans were a bit thin in texture but tasty nonetheless. Anyway, I soon discovered to simply put the taco mixture into the beans and then spoon the result back onto the tortilla. Voila!

All of this was washed down by a Negra Modelo, a rather dark Mexican beer that I had become slightly fond of since first having it several months ago at another nearby "Mexican" restaurant.

This is definitely a big thumbs up: low prices, great service, delicious food. What more could you ask for?

El Rancho Grande
313 Plainfield
Providence, 02909
401.275.0808

Chris Gasbarro's wine shop in Seekonk

2008-04-26T13:16:00.006-04:00

On Thursday, 24 April I returned to Chris Gasbarro's wine store in Seekonk.

When Mr. Gasbarro heard about my recent experience in trying to purchase a case of wine and the problem that ensued, he contacted me straightaway. He wanted to let me know that they had restructured their discount policy to try and rectify the confusion. He asked that I come by to check out the new system.

So I did.

In fact my wife and I decided to kill two birds with one stone, as it were: we went to Gasbarro's in Seekonk to check out the new pricing system and for one of their regular wine tastings, this one happened to be a tasting of Iberian peninsula wines, an area that we know little about but were keen to discover.

First the discounting system. They give 10% off of a case but only of those wines carrying a blank orange sticker (admittedly a very large selection of wines). Prior to using the orange stickers there was really no way of the customer being sure which wines were discounted and which were not. Mr.Gasbarro informed me that the system was still under evaluation and that they planned to upgrade their software to provide more clarity and ease of use for his staff as well.

Second the wine tasting. The shop has two large rooms on the second level, both with commanding views of the store and what seems to be a literal sea of wine bottles..

Anyway, the two surprises for us that evening were, in a nutshell, experiencing some fantastic wines from Spain (the Portugese selections left us unimpressed) and meeting Frank Carpano, Sr.

Not long after we climbed the stairs to the tasting rooms and walked inside, Chris Gasbarro introduced Susie and I to Frank, an octogenarian with a real nose for wine. Frank was a Tuscan by birth but had come to the US as a little boy and while becoming a success in New York city found time to develop his wine palate. And we were the beneficiaries of it that evening.

What inspired us right off was that we could speak with him in Italian -- which we did for much of the evening -- and we came to rely on his nose as we went from table to table, chatting about the particular qualities of this wine or that one. And of course straying off into conversations about Italy -- his family is from Lucca, my God Lucca! -- among other things.

After the tasting, which is free I might add, and very well organized and laid out with food and ample water, we spent a little time choosing a few wines to purchase. We were both impressed with the Albarino varietal of white wines from northwestern Spain (Galicia) and so choose several different producers of that particular grape.

A wonderful way to close out the week and begin a celebration on my completing the 60th year of life. And better things were yet to come.

Close to food, Gracie's again

2008-04-25T14:40:00.000-04:00

Here are just four examples of food I came across recently at Gracie's. I had a camera so why not?

Broadway Avenue Restaurant Angst

2008-04-24T09:21:00.000-04:00

Or, why the city needs is more imagination and less fiddling.

OK, so I'm new to Providence but one thing I've known for some time: this is a city that has become famous far and wide for its food. One might even make the argument that much of the city's recent growth can be directly attributed to the scores of restaurants that have opened over the past handful of years, places that represent a broad range of diverse culinary adventures.

You can imagine my surprise when I recently learned that the restaurants along Broadway are being punished by the city zoning folks for putting tables out on the sidewalk.

It may seem petty and foolish, but in all fairness to the zoning board, like any other organization their primary objective is to enforce rules and regulations no matter how absurd. Of course it would be nice to think that their main reason for being would be to identify a problem and suggest ways the city might resolve it effectively while at the same time allow for the continuing evolution and growth of neighborhoods, particularly neighborhoods that are in sore need of all the help available.

Like the west side of Providence.

Much of the positive development that attracts people like us to Broadway and Westminster are the restaurants. A place to sit outside on late afternoon sipping a coffee or glass of wine, maybe even eat a meal and watch the world glide by.

Like Paris or Florence or, heck even downtown Providence.

Gee, maybe if we spent more time figuring out why our roads resemble those in the Third world and how we can fix them and less time worrying about the impact of putting a few dining tables outside, we just might push the growth of this grand little big city even further.

Just maybe.

Broadway Bistro and Brillat-Savarin

2008-04-23T09:09:00.006-04:00

On Monday Susie I headed north to Boston on the commuter rail to watch brother-in-law Dick run the Marathon. It was a gorgeous day for the race and for just strolling through the city's public garden before heading back to the train station.

We were back in Providence before 5 p.m. and a leisurely stroll towards home brought us by Broadway Bistro on, well, Broadway of course. (I've written about these folks before; check the archives in the sidebar.)

We thought, "hey let's stop in and have a glass of sparkling wine to celebrate the day and Dick's return to running in the Big Time." Well, the atmosphere was so inviting, the conversation with Suzanne behind the bar so engaging and the smells wafting out of the kitchen so tempting that we couldn't resist the obvious: we stayed and ate dinner.

Oh, and lest we forget -- the passion for culinary arts didn't begin in France, but boy did it ever get a big push forward there. And one of the men who did much of that early prodding was Jean Brillat-Savarin. He rests peacefully in division 28 of Pere Lachaise cemetery in Paris. If you're ever in the City of Light and Love and Damn Good Food, pay him a visit. He's right off the path and easy to spot. Skip the flowers and leave him a croissant if think about it. Even better something with pastry creme in it. . .

Chris Gasbarro's Wine and Spirits with an update

2008-04-20T13:21:00.007-04:00

Sorry about being so tardy in replying to my own post promising to provide more details about my odd experience at Chris Gasbarro's Wine and Spirits in Seekonk. I wanted to give Chris Gasbarro the opportunity to reply before posting this entry. He was prompt in responding and I've included his note at the end. (photo: no, this has nothing to do with this post but it is a favorite: the statue of Leon Blum in Place Leon-Blum in the 11th arrondissement, Paris.)

The problem I experienced wasn't earthshaking by any means -- but buying wine is often challenging enough without running into other problems along the way. Anyway, I'm please to report that Chris has taken quick remedial action to see it doesn't happen again.

So a couple of weeks ago a neighbor recommended the Seekonk shop -- she thought the service very good and the wine selection outstanding.

I can certainly vouch for the selection, particularly the Italians, but there is also a very nice variety of French as well. Still, there's just no beating the breadth of Italian wines at Gasbarro's in Seekonk (or the one on Atwell's for that matter). Pricing of the Italian wines, a growing point of despair for the US customer in this age of a strong Euro and a weak dollar, still seemed a bit high I thought, particularly for the lower end whites. So I shifted my attention to the more reasonably priced French whites and reds. There's still great value coming out of the Loire, Alsace and southern and southwestern France, and since they had a good selection across the pricing spectrum, I picked out a full case. All the wines but one -- a "special" value wine -- carried the notation of 10% off as a case discount.

(I should note that as for case discounts locally, some other discounts are: Eno also gives 10% off of a case, while Campus wines gives 6, 10 and 12% for 6, 10 and 12 bottles. The best I've found so far is at Friendly Liquors in Whitinsville, MA. Bill Giannopolis gives 20% off of everything in the store during their wine tastings held several times a year.)

Anyway, I carried my case of wines to the check out counter and after the cashier rang everything up I asked if the total included the 10% discount.

No, she said. There was no discount on any of the wines.

I said that was funny because all but one of the wines carried a price notation stating a 10% discount.

She replied that the one "special" value wine apparently kicked out the discount on the eleven others.

I asked "will I have to purchase a 13th bottle to get a discount?"

She seemed uncertain about that so she called someone who I assume was the manager although he didn't introduce himself as such.

Anyway he fiddled with the computer monitor for a few minutes and I asked him what was wrong. He said that the computer was telling him there were no discounts on any of the wines but he admitted that that had to be wrong since he was sure there was.

I said "OK, now what?"

He didn't know. He just kept staring at the computer screen.

I asked if I was going to get a discount or not and he was uncertain as to what to reply.

I said thanks but I was no longer interested and left the store.

As I drove off I thought to myself, this was a prime example of the new set of problems facing business today: the age-old problem of mediocre customer service but now abetted by the new-age problem of goofy software.

Later I tried to recall if there had ever been a time when I walked out of a wine shop in the middle of a transaction and had to say no, it had never happened before. But the longer I stood at the counter and no one saying anything about making the thing right or work or whatever the more I felt this was going nowhere and that it was time to go.

I drove to Eno in downtown Providence and with the help of the staff picked out a case -- for 10% off.

Will I ever go back to Seekonk?

Yes. Why? Read Chris Gasbarro's reply to my comments and you'll understand.

Dear Steve,

Thank you for the timely reply and the opportunity to review your negative experience at my store. Attention to customer satisfaction is always of great concern to me. I am very proud of the large selection that I am able to offer my customers at very good prices and I strive to always offer an enjoyable shopping experience.

The problem you encountered was due to the store personnel not being able to immediately identify the bottle from your case that was not discountable. You were correct in the observation that point of sale software can make the jobs of cashiers more difficult however there was no excuse for making you wait an inordinate amount of time during the process or for not being polite and apologetic.

My immediate solution is to clearly label each bottle not just the shelf price labels of all discountable wines. I hope this will prevent confusion and delays such as you experienced.

It's this kind of attention to their customers that makes for a successful and flourishing business. So yes, I'm going back this Thursday.

I'll keep you posted.

Wine preferences and the search for Averna

2008-04-19T06:44:00.007-04:00

What kind of wines do you look for? Since there are a gazillion wines out there -- and more coming all the time from South America, Australia and New Zealand, Connecticut (more of that later) -- I have pretty much taken a vow to bypass those new wines for the "old world" products. I stick with French and Italian.

Now before you go ballistic let me explain that I'm not stodgy and set in my ways -- probably not -- anyway I simply prefer "old world" wines to "new world" products. We like the acid-fruit balances found in the Loire, Alsatian and Sicilian whites; and the fruit found in the reds of Piemonte and Tuscany shine over and above even the best California cabernets. Those wines are made to go with food -- lots of different food I might add -- and they show it time and time again. For example, I've found that a solid Chianti Classico goes with just about any food -- East or West. But that's my palate and not yours.

Naturally when I go shopping for wines I check out the French and Italian selections. Generally speaking, with the strong Euro and weak dollar I have found Italian prices to have gone up significantly over the past few years. Still I'd much rather spend my hard-earned 30 bucks on a Barbaresco than on some boutique jammy Zinfandel from one of a thousand quaint wineries in California.

And French prices seem to have remained steady and, like Spanish, can often be a good value, not to mention a tasty choice. Steering away from Bordeaux and Burgundy -- although some value can be found in those regions to be sure -- the Alsace, Loire and southwestern and southern France are all good bets.

I also check to see what the store has for digesitivo, digestif, or after-dinner drinks. I have become addicted -- I think that's probably an apt term -- to the Italian amaro, or bitter. I love the refreshing feel of a Campari and soda before a meal to cleanse my palate and get it ready for the onslaught of food to follow.

But I particularly love a soothing bitter after dinner.

But not just any "bitter." I don't care for Fernet Branca or Ramazzotti or Cynar or even Montenegro; and while I do like Nonino I much prefer the Sicilian Averna (sorry Aimone). I steer clear of the somewhat sweet "cordials" such as Amaretto or Sambuca or Frangelico. For me a meal isn't complete without a digestivo, which helps to settle the stomach, preparing it for bedtime.

So, like the values hiding out in the corners of France and Italy, I'm always on the lookout for prices of Averna -- when I can find it of course.

It was one day in search of Averna that I had an example of the challenges facing those of us who love that particular amaro. A couple of months ago I stopped by Town Liquors to check on Averna and they had three bottles, one priced at $15.95 and two at $21.95 (I believe). I asked a salesman if they could get more and when he returned from checking his computer (the bane of all wine lovers I might add) he informed me that yes he could. The cost? $26.95.

Strong Euro indeed! I certainly don't blame Town -- everywhere I go it's pretty much the same story. Averna, like the other digestivi, is expensive, and yet is not what you would call a power selling product. And the odd thing is no one will discount Averna! I have yet to find anyone who will add it to the case discount for example.

So far the least expensive bottle of Averna I have found is at Campus wines in Providence: $23.99.

Savory Grape wine Dinner at Gracie's

2008-04-15T14:18:00.005-04:00

Yesterday, Monday, Susie and I spent a wonderful evening enjoying good food and great company -- or great food and even better company -- anyway we had a grand time at Gracie's.

Working with the folks at the Savory Grape wine shop in East Greenwich, RI, who brought in the owner of Easton Wines in California, Gracie's put on a spectacular dinner last evening. I had been asked if I would come and take some photos and naturally Susie came along.

We arrived about 6 p.m. and already the folks were gathering at the bar, steeling themselves for the culinary surprises hovering just around the corner in the kitchen.

Susie and I sat with Gracie regulars Bill and Christine and two other couples who happened to be big fans of the Savory Grape.

The tables were laid out with a casual elegance and the participants were a casually informal, fun loving bunch, clearly eager to learn not only about Easton's wines but also what was in store for them in the kitchen.

We didn't have long to wait. Here's the breakdown:

First Course
Tuna "Nicoise" Terrine with Crisp Leeks, Haricot Verts, White Anchovies, Cured Olives, Re Manfredi First Press Olive Oil, Tomato Water and Eva's Pea Tendrils.
Wine Pairing: 2006 Easton Sierra Sauvignon Blanc

Second Course
Truffled Fava Bean Agnolotti with Buerre Noisette and Morel and Fava Bean Fricassee.
Wine Pairing: 2005 Terre Rouge Enigma (Marsanne, Viognier, Rousanne)

Third Course
Over Roasted Point Judith Black Bass Accompanied by Crisp Pork Rillons, First of the Season Ramps (of the onion family), a Terre Rouge Buerre Noir.
Wine Pairing:1999 Terre Rouge Noir (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre)

Fourth Course
Seared Wolfs Neck Farm's Hangar Steak Glazed with Banyuls Shallot Jus and Served with Triple Cooked Chips, Pan Roasted Spicy Greens, Creamed Garlic.
Wine Pairing:2002 Easton Shenandoah Valley Estate Zinfandel

Dessert
Baked "Rhode Island," Johnnycake Sponge Cake Topped with Rocky Road Coffee Milk Ice Cream and Crisp Gooey Marshmallow Meringue.
Wine Pairing:Easton Late Harvest Zinfandel

This may sound like a small thing, but I've never, ever had fresh peas that were so perfectly cooked, nice and crisp, as if they were right out of the pod and warmed just enough. And the thin-sliced fava beans! Don't get me started on those. . . Incredible!

You should have been there. . .

Nick's on Sunday -- again

2008-04-14T08:31:00.006-04:00

There are some truly wonderful places to eat in Providence, places for just about any budget, and I'm confident in saying that their number is probably disproportionately high compared to the number of people living in the greater Providence area. So why do we keep going back to Nick's on Broadway for Sunday breakfast?

It's got the diner atmosphere, friendly and very competent service, and, its got extraordinarily good food. It always comes down to the food.

Of course it helps that it's only a three-block walk from our home.

So Susie and I strolled over to Nick's yesterday morning -- we arrived a little before nine and the "joint was jumpin'" already. Naturally the wait was already 15-30 minutes. But we didn't mind. With the layout at Nick's it's a great place to watch the food being prepared, the people eating it and to strike up the occasional conversation with a another "chowhound."

They finally called our name and we were soon ensconced at the bar -- our favorite place since you get to watch all the action -- and frankly on a busy Sunday morning that can be riveting.

But what to order? was our dilemma that morning; a dilemma we experience every time we go to Nick's. Derek Wagner's menus is creative, imaginative and full of wonderful ingredients. Of course it may seem rushed as you watch the choreography behind the counter but each dish is carefully and lovingly prepared.

Susie ordered one of the wraps: scrambled eggs and prosciutto with mozzarella I believe. They finish the wrap off on the griddle to give it a toasty and slightly warm edge. Incredible.

I ordered one of the specials, the potato-fennel cakes topped with a pair of perfectly poached eggs, finished off with Hollandaise sauce. For an added treat I also ordered a side of the scrumptious maple pork sausage.

Notice the greens? I asked what they were and even though Derek was moving in six directions at once, he explained that they were called "lamb lettuce," also known as "mache." His idea, he told me across two counters, was to provide both a pleasing color contrast and a refreshing crispness to the other elements on the plate. It certainly worked for me.

Oh, and we're not sure but we think we just happened to be sitting next to "Nick."

You just can't go wrong with a place like this.

Nick's on Broadway
500 Broadway, Providence 02909
ph: 401.421.0286

Wish you had been there,

Steve

A week of food in Providence

2008-04-11T16:07:00.006-04:00

Ok so it wasn't a whole week packed with new and exciting food stuff. We ate at home all week -- Asian and homemade pizza topped our menus though and we did pretty well I think.

We did head downtown for the Wednesday night wine flight at Gracie's. It's become pretty much a routine for us and even though Susie spends lots of hours at Gracie's most days of the week she enjoys returning as a customer, when she can relax and sip a little wine and snack on some of Chef Joe's amazing creations.

Here's a short bit of video that I shot of Susie piping meringue in the kitchen at Gracie's, yesterday, Tuesday, 8 April. She's piping the Baked Alaska, which went on the menu last week, and consists of banana ice cream on a chocolate cake base topped by delicious meringue of course!

Bon appetit!

Wednesday night wine flight at Gracie's

2008-04-05T08:31:00.013-04:00

This past Wednesday Susie and I made our (now regular) trip to Gracie's for the "wine flight of the week." The deal is you get to taste three wines (the theme changes each week) and a tasting of three edible tidbits prepared by Chef Joe's just for those wines. The tasting runs from about 5:30 until about 7:30 -- hey these folks are flexible.

Anyway, by the time we arrived the bar was packed and so we grabbed a small table in the lounge. With a great view of the Trinity Rep theater we could easily keep an eye on the ebb and flow of humanity both outside and in.

We've been pleasantly surprised with the wines at these affairs, and have enjoyed learning about new wines and how they match up with food. (We now have a new appreciation for South African wines, for example.)

The food as always was delicious -- this is the second time we've had Chef Joe's incredible porkbelly. Frankly he is a master at creating a dish that literally melts in your mouth like butter and yet tastes like pork.

There was also hanger steak on a small quarter of brussel sprout, ummmmm good!

And normally I don't care much for foie gras but that evening the preparation was truly mouth-watering; it was almost as if it had been lightly fluffed with a hint of citrus to it, spread over a wonderful homemade cracker. Man oh man!

The wines that evening were OK but generally no match for the outstanding food. The tasting consisted of three vintages of zinfandels from Jonathan Edwards, 2004, 2005 and 2006. Edwards, a producer in Connecticut arranges with growers in Napa valley to have grapes sent to Connecticut where they are bottled and then marketed as Connecticut wines. Don't ask me why. Anyway we thought the wines lacked balance between fruit and acid --a balance that we easily detected in the glass of Latour Pinot Noir that we enjoyed as a follow-on that evening. The zins did bear up a tad better with the food, it is true, but the body was never there.

We did get a chance to try one of Susie's new Baked Rhode Islands: a cornmeal cake base, coffee brownie chunk walnut ice cream and meringue, of course.

Oh, and before we left I sneaked a quick peek in the kitchen and caught this incredible piece of meat heading out front -- which I thought should have gone with me but someone else had apparently had the audacity to have ordered it first.

So next week is Pacific Northwest wines -- Gracie's pours a superb pinot gris from Adelsheim so we've eager to see what they have for us next Wednesday. And we can't wait to see what Chef Joe concocts for the wines. My fingers are crossed for a threesome of fish but we'll just have to wait.

Wish you were here,

Steve

Wine in Providence

2008-04-02T06:53:00.005-04:00

Within the northeastern part of the Ocean State there are plenty of liquor stores where you can find wine. You know the kind of place I'm talking about: narrow storefront smack in the middle of a strip mall with the plate glass windows filled with cases of Bud Lite. And while I have actually found a few decent wines in such places, I tend to concentrate my wine buying on places that cater predominately to the wine consumer.

Anyway there are plenty of liquor stores in greater Providence but few wine shops.

Town Liquors over in East Providence has a small but very quality-driven selection of wines.

Gasbarro's on Atwell's avenue is a landmark of course. You simply cannot beat their selection of Italian wines.

And speaking of Gasbarro's, there's Chris Gasbarro's Wine and
Spirits, just across the state line in Seekonk, MA. They have a very large selection of Italian and French wines. This place is a favorite with one of my neighbors but I was very put off on a recent trip there (more of that in my next post).

I should also mention Yankee Spirits in Attleboro, also just across the state line and also another huge warehouse of wine and spirits and beer and such, with a huge selection of wines. They do run some interesting sales from time to time. Still, it had that sweet sickly smell of spoiled yeast permeating the air.

One of the more user-friendly wine-dedicated shops is Eno, located right in downtown Providence on Westminster Street. It may seem a bit upscale at first, but the staff is helpful with an easygoing manner and eager too share their knowledge and enthusiasm for wine. They also have a large selection of wines for less than ten bucks. Very nice idea and well-executed. Also, their case discounts are simple: ten percent off any mixed case. Period. Anyway, this is where I first discovered Luxardo ($22), the amaretto my wife prefers. While lacking the massive volume of the big box stores, their selections are well-chosen, and with care and appreciation for the wine and the customer. (No gallon bottles of Friday's chocolate booze mixers here.)

I also like the folks at Campus Wines on Brook Street on the East Side. Like the staff at Eno they too are friendly, easygoing and knowledgeable without being pretentious or snooty and always eager to help me find the right wine -- or something as close as possible. They have very nice selection of wines, and their prices on Veuve Clicquot (NV) are positively incredible! They sell the 750ml for $39, which is at least $5-10 cheaper than just about everywhere else. Like most other places they give case discounts.

So where do you go to find the best wine at the lowest price?

Providence Pizza -- some suggestions

2008-03-31T10:35:00.004-04:00

Based on a series of recent posts on providencepalate.com -- a great source of information for the food junkies in Providence -- and from a recent taste test between two pizzerias, we've come up with a short list of good places to grab a pizza.

Al Forno, 577 South Main street, Providence, www.alforno.com

Bacaro, 262 South Water street, Providence, www.bacarorestaurant.net

Bob and Timmy's Pizza, 32 Spruce Street, Providence, ph: 453.2221

Campanella's, 930 Oaklawn avenue, Cranston, Ph: 943.3500

Caserta Pizza, 121 Spruce street, Providence, ph:272-3618

Feast or Famine, three locations: North Providence, Warren and Cranston; www.feastorfamineri.com

Fellini Pizzeria, 166 Wickenden Street, Providence, ph: 751.6737; www.FelliniPizza.com

Geppetto's Pizzeria, 57 Depasquale Plaza, Providence, ph: 270-3003

Neo's, 2244 Plainfield Pike, Johnston; ph: 942.4636

Fellini's vs. Bob and Timmy's Pizza in Providence

2008-03-30T09:28:00.003-04:00

Friday night, last night in fact, four of us ran our own side-by-side taste test of pizzas from two well-known pizzerias in Providence: Fellini's and Bob and Timmy's. My brother-in-law and his wife are keen on providence dining and drove down from Douglas, MA, to join us for our pizza experiment.

From Fellini's on Wickenden street we ordered their "Sweet Heaven" pizza, with bacon, ricotta cheese and scallions in a creamy parmesan sauce. From B & T we ordered a three mushroom pizza with portobello, crimini and shitake mushrooms, diced tomatoes and grilled yellow onions.

OK, first the basics.

The pizzas come in only one size: Fellini's specialty pizzas are 18-inch and cost $20. Bob and Timmy's specialty pies are about 14 inches and cost $15. Fellini's is traditional oven baked, B & T's are grilled. The Fellini's round pie was sliced in the typical pie shape, while the B & T square pie was (supposed to be) sliced in small squares/rectangles.

Both were ordered at the same time and were ready at the same time (about 20 minutes, early Friday night).

Both locations provided tables but one could certainly be safe in saying that take-out is the primary source of business.

Second, the comparison.

The ingredients in both were fresh and very tasty; the mushrooms in fact filled the kitchen with their earthy aromas as soon as the box was opened and the grilled onions on the B & T pie were just right, nicely al dente.

The Fellini pizza was equally tasty and the use of ricotta appealed to all four of us. (We are all used to making our own pizzas, both oven and grilled.) And their method of using bacon was tres cool indeed. They used entire strips (not bits or pieces) and they were cooked to perfection. The scallions I thought a nice touch, although the parmesan sauce escaped us.

The issue came down to the crust.

The Fellini crust was just right, held it's shape when picked up and had a nice texture to the bite.

The B & T pie was more like naan bread than pizza. It almost seemed as if it had not been cooked through, yet it looked fine when examined closely. It was very soft and doughy and, like I said reminded two of us of Indian naan bread. It made it very difficult to cut -- and in fact they had hardly cut it at all before boxing it.

The B & T crust really put off two others at the table who have spent the better part of the last 20 years grilling their own pizzas at home. I must admit that while I liked the flavor of the crust there was something fundamentally flawed about the crust and clearly they had not done something properly.

So the winner for the evening was clearly the Fellini pie.

Fellini Pizzeria, 166 Wickenden Street, ph: 751.6737; www.FelliniPizza.com
Bob and Timmy's Pizza, 32 Spruce Street, ph: 453.2221

Gracies, again and again

2008-03-27T09:26:00.013-04:00

OK, OK so this is not technically about dining out -- but it is about going to a Providence restaurant. That's a start, right?

Also I would just point out that going to a restaurant to enjoy the ambiance and have a glass of wine at the bar, as we did on March 21 should count for something:

Or stopping in for the regular Wednesday wine flight tasting (three wines accompanied by a chef's tasting to compliment the wines), as we did on March 26 should also have some meaning:

Asian markets in Providence

2008-03-23T08:27:00.000-04:00

A quick google of "Asian markets in Providence" brings the typical plethora of useless links -- city guides or faux yellow pages orbiting in cyberspace -- although several gems hang there ripe for the picking. The "New Asian Market" on Broad street, Yang's" on Thayer, "Asian Star Market" on Elmwood or the "Sunny Market Place" on Reservoir Ave., all in Providence proper are likely candidates for finding Asian groceries.

I've tried Asiana Market on Warren and found it clean but small with a large dose of Japanese specialty items and some produce at very nice prices. (Napa cabbage for example at 20-30 cents cheaper than the grocery chains.), I've also visited Mekong Seafood on Broad street. I thought the place smelled terrible, was very dark and seemed to focus on very little outside of Southeast Asia. Word is they are known for their seafood but I can't vouch for that. I must say, however, I found it refreshing to watch the Asian butcher speaking in Spanish with the Hispanic customers (in fact, except for me all the customers there were hispanic or latino) -- rather reminded me of Paris.

As for the local Whole Food stores in Providence they have little more variety than say Stop 'n Shop, although of course they do carry a number of organic Asian products naturally.

The simple fact, for me at any rate, is most "Asian" stores do not stock a wide variety of those Chinese condiments that I have grown particularly fond of over the years: bean sauces (spicy or garlic or black, you name it), hoisin sauce, oyster sauce, chili sauces, almost anything by the Lee Kum Kee group for example. (Maybe I got spoiled living so close to Chinatown in paris.)

Well a quick modification of my google search, substituting the word "chinese" for "asian" market and I soon learn that there is but one store listed in all of the greater Providence: the "Chinese American Mini Market" on Park avenue in Cranston.

So the other day I jumped in the car and, with fingers crossed and expectations high, I headed off for Cranston.

Talk about exceeding expectations!

As I pulled off of Rte. 10 onto Reservoir Avenue my eye immediately caught sight of an Asian market right at the end of the exit ramp. I quickly pulled into the parking lot at the rear of the building, walked around to the front and found the door locked -- but the hours posted said they were open. And so they were. A woman came and unlocked the door and ushered me inside the tiny shop. Less than 30 seconds later I came face-to-face with a long shelf lined with nothing but, you guessed it, Lee Kum Kee products! I was ecstatic!

I began grabbing first the spicy bean sauce, then the plain bean sauce, then the black bean with garlic, and then the hoisin sauce, on and on it went until I had an armload of condiments.

All of which came to barely twenty bucks.

I had discovered H & P Food Service Co. Located at 445 Reservoir Rd., I had no idea they were there of course. What a find!

From there I headed off to the Chinese American Mini Market just five minutes away, in the shadow of the Cranston city hall.

I have no idea as to where the idea came from to call this a "mini" market -- it is of course not that at all. This is one of the largest Asian markets I have seen since living in Paris. The place is HUGE inside with several walls of cold and frozen Asian stuff, piles and piles of massive bags of rice and several walls of just noodles, packaged in every size, shape and variation imaginable, from ready-to-heat 'n serve to plain dried noodles. If you are a serious noodle person this is a one-stop shopping mecca for you.

And the sheer volume of Korean products was overwhelming -- row upon row of Korean and Chinese newspapers that greeted me as I entered should have warned me I was in a wholly different world now. They also advertise themselves as a major purveyor of Filipino and Japanese products as well, but I can't attest to that.

And of course the condiments: the oils, vinegars, spices and seemingly limitless amount of stuff for you to put in your food is astounding. And Kikkoman even got their own shelf space, there had so many products on display.

I will say that the prices on Lee Kum Kee was, I think, a bit lower at H & P -- but I certainly didn't undertake a serious comparative study.

If you are a serious aficionado of Chinese and Korean food and are looking for those hard-to-find items, head on over to H & P at 445 Reservoir or Chinese American Mini Market at 834 Park in Cranston

A peek behind the curtain at Gracie's

2008-03-20T16:54:00.003-04:00

Now for some the restaurant business is, well, just that: a business. Like any other business people come to work, open the doors, let the customers in, provide a product or service for which they are paid, and say goodbye as the customers leave.

Well, actually in some restaurants it's a bit more complicated than that. In fact, the hard work and attention to detail in getting ready to serve an exquisitely prepared meal to total strangers requires a choreography of mind and spirit before the candles are lit and the doors unlocked.

Some weeks back I had the opportunity to observe the staff of Gracie's setting up for dinner.

A future for cork?

2008-03-19T07:27:00.010-04:00

I admit it, this doesn't have anything to say about dining in Providence per se. But then it sort of does.

What I mean is that if we assume wine to be a part of the dining experience -- and if you don't I'm terribly sorry, believe me -- if we take wine as a crucial component of the dining experience then you'll grant me this one exception I'm sure.

OK, so I recently stopped at Campus Wines on Brook Street, just off of Wickenden Street on the East Side of Providence, the area euphemistically known as the "Left Bank." I had never been there before but Brendan, the wine guy at Gracie's mentioned Campus Wines to me one evening as a good local source for wines and suggested I check them out. And since I'm always on the hunt for certain items, not to mention looking for the best value in the greater Providence area, I thought I would drop by.

A friendly young man named Evan suggested a few wines and kindly answered several questions I had as I wended my way through the various aisles. One of the wines he recommended was a delicious white from Sicily, Insolia and here I had my first glimpse of one possible future replacement for the wine cork: glass.

I cannot begin to tell you how cool this is: the thing comes right out of the bottle and yet can go right back in and serve as a stopper! Whoa! This is what a truly liberated imagination can do for you.

And then less than two weeks later I'm at a wine tasting at Gracie's, just this past Wednesday in fact, and one of the wines was an Alsatian white with, you guessed it! A glass wine stopper!

I've seen the future and it works.

So go and check out Campus Wines, 127 Brook Street. Or visit their website:

www.campuswines.com

Broadway Bistro -- 17 March 2008

2008-03-18T12:00:00.004-04:00

We don't seem to get out much these days -- although that's probably not as true as I think. Anyway, we cook at lot at home. In the past, when we lived in Vermont there wasn't much opportunity to find really good food, at least not close by our home in Rutland. There was Little Harry's and Three Tomatoes downtown and then Cafe Provence opened in Brandon -- but six or eight or ten miles on Route 7 in Vermont can prove daunting, particularly in winter.

In Paris it was, needless to say, quite the opposite. We had what seemed an endless variety of dining opportunities available within walking distance, certainly within Metro distance. But with Susan experimenting at home with her newfound baking techniques and my own brand of experimenting, particularly with Asian food since I was almost cheek-by-jowl to some of the world's finest Asian markets, we didn't eat out that often even in Paris.

Then comes Providence. Or rather we come to Providence, New England's food capital. There is very little here in the way of the textile industries or major manufacturing, and in fact those days are pretty much gone everywhere in this part of the country. Mills are being turned into condos everywhere you look -- a pretty good thing in my estimation -- and the general trend here in Providence is toward the cerebral industries: technologies, education and, need I say it: food.

Walking from, say City Hall and Kennedy Plaza downtown in nearly any direction will bring you to any one of a half dozen damn good places to eat. There are places of distinction serving haute cuisine in enveloping atmospheres seeking to provide the ultimate dining experience to small cafes and bistros eager to just serve a plate of good soup or chili or a sandwich.

Well we recently discovered a place that probably falls somewhere in between these two extremes: Broadway Bistro (that's the entrance in the photo; go ahead and look up.)

As you might expect, this is located on Broadway, just a few blocks west of I-95 and along our walking route downtown. And it is just that: a bistro. After we sat down at a 2-top in the small but cozy dining room with a long bar at the far wall, we were both struck at just how much it felt like a small cafe in Paris.

The service was smooth and friendly, in fact one young woman handled everything out front: waiting on tables, tending the bar, you name it. And she did it easily and effortlessly. The kitchen is small but easily observed on the right side of the far wall and you can informally poke your head in and say hi.

The wine list is short but sweet -- Susie and I started off with a glass of prosecco and, since we both had fish for dinner we each had a glass of Santa Barbara chardonnay. And speaking of dinner Susan had the salmon, pan-seared to perfection on a bed of delicious shredded veggies and rice, and I had the fish 'n chips: a perfectly done, hefty piece of lightly battered cod that was moist and juicy; the chips were indeed what we Yanks call chips but the Brits call crisps. Whatever you call them they were homemade and exquisite bites of potato that complimented the cod very well indeed.

I couldn't help but notice this month in both Rhode Island Monthly and the latest issue of the Providence Phoenix, the restaurant reviewers focused on Loie Fuller (yes, yes I know it's pronounced Low Fuller), which, curiously enough is right across the street from our apartment but we haven't eaten there -- yet. The lines have simply been too long. So along comes something a little different for you without having to wait: the Broadway Bistro. The decor isn't art nouveau but it is very Parisian, the food is worth the trip, the service right on the money and the music is very eclectic and quite enjoyable.

Broadway Bistro, 205 Broadway. Go and go now.

Michele De Luca-Verley of la maison de COCO

2008-03-17T09:56:00.002-04:00

Over the past decade or so Rhode Island has developed a reputation for being home to some of the most innovative and imaginative chefs in the Northeast if not the United States.

While Providence is the lynchpin of this culinary revolution, with places like Gracie’s, Olga’s, Al Forno, Nick’s on Broadway and many others leading the way, out in the quiet Rhode Island countryside another revolution is underway.

Not as visible perhaps but no less important for Rhode Island’s future are the “culinary entrepreneurs,” those artisans working out of their homes or in small shops, producing delectable treats for sale in local shops or directly from the producer.

One such artisan is chocolatier Michele De Luca-Verley of Portsmouth.

Chef Joe Hafner of Gracie's told me about Michele and her chocolates. I had asked Joe if he knew of any pastry chefs in the area who might be willing to talk about their work for an article I was doing on pastry chefs in Rhode Island for Prime Time magazine. Michele was the first name that came to mind.

I called her and asked if we could arrange to meet and talk about her work. A couple of days later I got a chance to spend an hour or so chatting with her about food in general and chocolate in particular. The highlight for me was watching as she made her wonderful tea-infused chocolate truffles and listening to her talk about her love of food, and chocolate in particular.

Michele was born in Rhode Island but as a young girl moved away, traveling the world, living in Italy and then France, where she fell in love and married.

She returned to the US and after living in New York City and Boston she returned to Rhode Island with her husband and children and found a quiet house in the peaceful countryside outside of Portsmouth.

Self-taught in the culinary art of making chocolate Michele has become something of a magician: she takes a thing as simple as chocolate and then infuses it with tea to make incredibly delicious truffles. It’s the ingredients that make the difference she told me; it’s the ingredients. . .

I asked her when she first discovered her love of cooking. Like so many others, the love of cooking came out of a deep abiding infatuation with the love of good food.

She told me that having been raised by a mother who always cooked with fresh ingredients and never from a can, she came to appreciate quality food from an early age.

At the time TV dinners were all the rage but we would never think of it in our home. We ate breakfast and dinners as a family. My mother made sauce for pasta using fresh tomatoes, basil, and garlic from my Grandmother's recipe. I grew up visiting and celebrating Sunday dinner at my Italian Grandmother's house every Sunday that would last for the entire afternoon. I also had a grandmother on my mother's side of the family who was of German descent and was always planning the next meal before we had finished the last one, again using fresh produce and meats. This emphasis on celebrating food with family set the stage for my love of food. I was also fortunate enough as a young child to spend summers in Italy. I was at a very impressionable age and well . . . let's say when they put granita di caffe con panna and a fresh brioche in front of me for breakfast I was taken.

OK, but where did she get her inspiration for such incredible chocolates?

My inspiration comes from the beauty of the agriculture that surrounds us in Rhode Island...sun-drenched berries, fresh eggs from the farmer down the road, local cream, scented with grass. My initial country of inspiration was France. While living there I was intrigued by the creativity and perfection of the pastry chefs. I began to think of my own pastries as canvases to express my own creativity. Being of Italian origin I must also include the inspiration I draw from the simplicity and from this simplicity an elegance of Italian pastry. I would much rather tumble fresh berries on top of a fruit tart than arrange them in neat rows as the French are more apt to do. It is this ease of expression and of life that Italians inherently possess which inspires me.

Since I’m married to a pastry chef I was eager to hear what Michele thought was the most difficult dessert she’s ever had to make. “Why a wedding cake!” she told me. “Baking and assembling a wedding cake is an art form unto itself and one that is too nerve-racking for me. I break out into a sweat whenever anyone mentions it to me.”

Of course, now I had to know what was the easiest dessert to make. “I would have to say that I love the simplicity and final result of making tarts if we are talking about pastry. Of course my passion and love is making tea-infused truffles.”

Regarding chocolate, I then asked her what is her favorite chocolate dessert to make? The answer was not surprising:

Truffles. But if I were to translate this into the pastry dessert realm, I would say a Coco Pastry shell filled with tea-infused ganache and topped with pile of fresh berries.

Wow! Tea-infused ganache! She started speaking my language that’s for sure.

Well, it was bound to happen when you get two people together who love to talk about food. The time flies by. I had already stayed longer than I had planned and didn’t want to impose on her time any longer. But there was one more question I had to ask:

What do you think is the greatest challenge facing pastry chefs today? Her answer was right to the point.

I think the greatest challenge for pastry chefs and chefs in general is just keeping everything simple. Sometimes I think adding in so many flavors to our plates just because we have access to them, diffuses the magnificence and the sublime beauty of just two or three flavors playing with the palate.

Keep it simple; flavorful, delicious and simple. Sounds good to me.

Ciao for now,

Steve Soper
steve@freetransform.com

la maison de COCO
Durfee Tea House
82 Glen Road
Portsmouth, RI 02871
Phone: 401 293 0524
Online: http://lamaisondecoco.com/
Email: mdv@lamaisondecoco.com

OK so I've changed the name

2008-03-15T07:40:00.002-04:00

I think the change was overdue; don't you?

After all, my focus now is primarily on food sold, served, produced or otherwise passed along in the greater Providence area. Along the way I will probably throw in a visit or two to restaurants or markets outside of the Ocean State but that's the risk we run.

Ciao,

Steve

Nick's on Broadway, a third time

2008-03-09T16:01:00.006-04:00

Well we went back to Nick's this beautiful Sunday morning. Susie had a hamsteak sandwich on whole wheat and I had Eggs Benedict with steak. (Trust me this was way better than my lousy photograph.) The eggs were poached to perfection, at least for my taste -- I asked for a hard poach -- and the steak was delicious and cooked just right. Nick's home fries are the best I've ever had, such a tasty combination of sweet and regular potatoes.

There's just no getting around the fact that Nick's is one damn fine place to eat, breakfast or dinner. If you're going for breakfast I urge you to get there early. We arrived a little before nine -- hey it's a three-block walk for us -- and there was no waiting. A half later later and the queuing had already begun.

Oh, and I want to say that the service has always been friendly, professional and knowledgeable. In fact Sharon has waited on us twice and she writes nothing down. I'm not sure any of them do actually.

Amazing.

Hard working kids

2008-03-08T06:27:00.000-05:00

The next time you see a group of young people sauntering down the street, heads bobbing this way and that, baseball caps all askew, baggy pants hanging around their shins, listening to hip hop music so loud their ears are bleeding, well the next time you see such a group and say to yourself, what has become of the hard working youth I have just one word for you: restaurant.

That's right sports fans. The next time you are out at your favorite eatery take a look behind the curtain, take a peek in the back room and my guess is you'll find those young folks working their butts to the bone.

I've watched one such kitchen close up now for about two months and I must tell you what I have observed is truly astounding.

The work ethic these kids have today would put most other professions to shame. They work long hours, and they work hard. These kids are reliable, trustworthy and just get about their job. Period. No whining, no complaining, just quiet intensity of effort.

Watch one of these kitchens sometime: it is as Patrick Gilgallon once explained it to me, an exercise in choreography to be sure but more than that. The focus is intense, the willingness to go above and beyond the proverbial call of duty commonplace. The handshakes are firm and the smiles genuine.

A great way to start out your life I should think.

Pastry Chef at Gracie's

2008-03-05T13:37:00.005-05:00

OK, OK so it's not big surprise for most of you -- Susie is the pastry chef of Gracie's.

But I'll bet you didn't know that besides being interviewed recently by the food writer of the Providence Journal (known locally as the ProJo), she was also asked a few questions by food blogger Stephanie Obodda.

If you want to read the interview, just go straight to Stephanie's blog. Or cut and paste the following link:

http://stephaniedoes.com/2008/5-questions-susan-vandenberg/

As for me, I just want my dad back. . .

Ciao!

Steve

Wednesday wine flight at Gracie's

2008-03-02T07:16:00.000-05:00

Wednesday we had a pleasant evening -- after a long day for Susie we went back into town, to Gracie's for the weekly wine flight -- this week it was three "Supertuscans" matched with three small tasting portions of some of Chef Joe's spectacular food. We weren't disappointed on either score. The wines were very nice: Argiano from Montalcino, Piocaia and Fattoria Di San Fabbiano both from near Arezzo. The food also matched well: raw tuna, duck confit and a delicious smoked polenta.

We had originally planed to do the wine flight and then go to a nearby Cuban restaurant for dinner (in honor of Fidel's retirement I suppose). Anyway, we soon found ourselves in a groove sitting at the bar at Gracie's, warm and comfortable, with smooth music playing around our ears and so decided to, well, just eat at the bar. And so we did.

We each had the Maytag salad (chock full of wonderful Maytag blue) topped with several of Gracie's homemade potato chips. We followed that with Chef Joe's homemade gnocchi (way to go Cara) topped with wonderful, earthy mushrooms. Our wine was a well-matched pinot noir from Louis Latour.

Chocolate, Chocolat, Coco, Cioccolata

2008-03-01T07:57:00.000-05:00

The one extra day that we give ourselves every four years turned out to be packed with a couple of curious surprises, pleasantly curious I must say.

So I'm putting the finishing touches on an article about pastry chefs in Rhode Island that I'm writing for Primetime magazine. I asked Chef Joe Hafner of Gracie's if he had any suggestions for me and he gave me a couple of good leads; indeed he was kind enough to make a call to Michele De Luca-Verley, an incredible chocolatier who runs her business out of her home in Portsmouth, RI.

I called Michele and arranged to come by to chat and take some photos of her at work.

After spending an hour or so with her it was clear that self-taught Michelle has grown her business through the force of her gentle personality and the quality of her chocolate: her truffles are fantastic and her smile contagious. Here are just a few of the photos I took yesterday:

A curious twist came when that evening we watched our latest movie from NetFlix -- Chocolat!

Is that just too cool or what?

And to top it all off we had a delicious pan-seared skirt steak in a red wine sauce -- thanks Chef Joe!

Ciao for now,

Steve

Two food blogs in Providence

2008-02-27T10:45:00.000-05:00

There are probably hundreds, maybe thousands of food bloggers gliding through cyberspace, and the number is probably growing each day. Everybody has an opinion and frankly some of them stink. But, and this is a very big but, more often than not I find food bloggers to be thoughtful, detailed, focused and lively in their prose as they skip around town or city, state or region looking to explain the latest culinary find or just simply help the rest of us find a decent place to eat.

Two such blogs worth checking out are maintained right here in Providence. Tomato soup and Stephanies Does. Both of these focus on eating and primarily eating in Rhode Island -- Providence being the lynchpin of course. Still, their entries make for entertaining reading and I find their prose straightforward and spirited.

If the links above don't work, hey just copy and paste!

http://tomatosoup.typepad.com/tomato_soup/

http://www.stephaniedoes.com/

Ciao for now,

Steve

Nick's on Broadway, second time around

2008-02-27T07:54:00.000-05:00

We caught up recently with our friend Rosemary -- the three of us spent some quality time together at Gerrish's in Winter Harbor last summer, Rosemary coming from several years working at Oleanna in Boston and Susie coming from working at Pascal's in Paris. Anyway, between the two of them they prepared some of the finest food the folks in Winter Harbor had seen in quite some time.

Rosemary was in the neighborhood working on setting up her bike tours of farms and vineyards of southeastern Rhode Island and so she zipped over in her zipcar to say hi.

The three of us chatted for a little while and then grabbed our coats and walked the three blocks or so to Nick's on Broadway for dinner. (Susie and I had eaten brunch there a couple of Sundays ago.) The place was virtually empty when we arrived -- although by the time we left it had started to fill up nicely.

We each had a glass of prosecco and continued our Gerrish talk -- and, as we usually do, just talked about food in general: how to make it, where to get it, that sort of thing. The wine list was short but well-priced, with a good selection by the glass and half-bottles; we settled on a half bottle of King Estate Pinot Gris in fact. Very nice touch indeed.

And speaking of food, Susan had the salmon, which looked luscious and delectable (it was) while Rosemary and I each had the scrumptious roasted sea scallops on butter squash/sweet potato puree:

For dessert Susie and Rosemary split the trio special: sorbet, a bread pudding and chocolate pudding-thing quietly hiding under a massive layer of whipped cream:

The service was friendly, the food very good and the walk back to our flat bracing -- the night was crisp, clear with a nearly full (?) moon.

Food seen through a Macro lens

2008-02-26T08:36:00.000-05:00

I've put together some of the better (!) food photographs I took recently at Gracie's restaurant in downtown Providence. It was an excellent opportunity to put my new macro lens to the test. Here ya go!

Nicks on Broadway and the Phoenix Dragon

2008-02-14T08:16:00.000-05:00

Two new restaurant reviews you might be interested in, if you're in West Providence.

Nick's on Broadway (500 Broadway in fact) is already pretty widely known throughout the city -- the chef-owner came off a major success at the Westin apparently and bought the old Nick's diner, turning it into one of the city's funkiest, upscale restaurant with a downtempo feel. We went there this past Sunday for brunch.

It was a gorgeous morning -- this being Providence that would of course change soon -- so we strolled the four short blocks up Harkness Street to Broadway turned left and voila! there was Nick's and a half hour wait. The place was packed, as in sardines. It has an open kitchen layout facing a counter and a long row of tables, bistro-style against the far wall.

I had a scrumptious omelet, made to order. You can choose from a long list of ingredients, like constructing a pizza. Susie had a half order of French Toast: massively thick slices of bread cooked right in front of your eyes, with several different freshly made toppings to choose from.

The other place is the Phoenix Dragon, at 256 Broadway, a few blocks closer to downtown than Nick's. We had often talked of eating there and since I ran late last Monday night after shooting an event downtown (the Ronald McDonald House Wine and Chocolate charity gig at Gracie's if you must know), I called Susie and said I'd stop there to get some takeout.

Service was very friendly, quite clean inside with a nice size sushi bar as well. They serve both Chinese and Japanese cuisine and their menu is extensive (although one young woman sitting at a nearby table was clearly disappointed when she was told, "no, sorry, but we don't have mashed potatoes.") The food was reasonably priced and very tasty too I might add.

New Year's Eve at Gracie's in Providence

2008-02-07T06:24:00.001-05:00

The folks at Gracie's were kind enough to invite to come by this past New year's Eve and take some photos and shoot some video of their new pastry chef at work. So I did.

"Art of the Tart" at Gracie's

2008-02-06T10:55:00.001-05:00

No, this isn't about a cheap woman who paints. It's about food. Really good food. Last Monday night, 4 February, Susie and chef Joe Hafner gave a class in the kitchen at Gracie's, "The Art of the Tart," or, how to make great tart dough. (photo: Joe, Susie and Cara gearing up or the tart demo!)

When I learned about the class I asked Joe if I could take a few photos and he was kind enough not only to allow me to intrude on this very personal evening but he fed me as well!

Joe and Cara had everything prepared for the savory portion of the evening's class, and Brendan had chosen the wines for the evening.

Joe:

Cara:

Brendan:

Susie demonstrated how to prepare two different dough recipes: a chocolate dough, followed by her personal favorite, a pate sableé with almonds (d'amandes). Using these two basic doughs she prepared three desserts for the evening's presentation: a chocolate ganache tart, a lemon-lime tart, and a pear-almond tart.

The class was small, only five people, but they were clearly a dedicated group of serious cooks, and the questions flew fast for most of the session.

"How do you. . . ?"

"Why do you . . . ?"

"Really?

"Why?"

These folks came to Gracie's that night for two reasons: to learn how to make good food better and then eat it. They certainly got what they bargained for.

After the demonstration, Joe and Cara fixed a delicious traditional quiche filled with bacon, leek and gruyere followed by a breast of duck cooked to perfection -- and believe me it tasted as good as it looks.

Brendan, the wine master at Gracie's paired a Ramey chardonnay with the quiche and then a Malbec from Argentina with the duck. With dessert we had a tokay from Hungary.

Everyone had a wonderful time and you can tell that Susie has, as Joe pointed rightly out, "hit her stride."

Wish you had been there!

Steve

Light fare in Providence: Pastiche and Olga's

2008-01-26T13:37:00.001-05:00

This past week we went out in Providence for daytime dining -- checking out a couple of the more talked about places in the city for light fare.

Pastiche on Spruce street on Federal Hill is a great place for coffee and a pastry during the day, or dessert after dinner -- in fact they're open pretty much every evening until 11 p.m. The service was amiable, the fire in the fireplace warm and inviting and the food delicious. (We split a scrumptious fruit tart.)

Olga's on Point street serves a bit more lunch time food -- paninis, homemade pizzas, soups and sandwiches. The atmosphere here is significantly funkier than at Pastiche where one might find a more refined French feel I suppose. Olga's is full of hipsters and L. L. Bean types, aging hippies, young professionals yearning to be hip, in other words, another place where you can feel comfortable just supping coffee, reading the paper, spending some quality time with friends. Susan had the Tuna Melt and I had the Thai noodles. sound hip? Sound trendy? Who cares? It was deeeeelicious!

Ciao,

Steve

Cassarino's on Federal Hill in Providence

2007-11-30T08:01:00.000-05:00

Cassarino's is one of those places smack in the middle of Federal Hill that have been around for years and people just enjoy coming to for drinks, laughs and lots of heavy Italian food.

We caught up with jack and Pat F. from Vermont the other night and after they watched their son perform at a concert at Providence College, the three of them met Susie and I at Cassarino's. It's literally a five-minute drive for us to Atwell's Avenue and we had the good sense to park on a side street and walk a couple of blocks to the restaurant. (Parking on weekends in particular can be challenging.)

When we arrived Pat and Mike were just inside waiting for jack to park the car -- he soon arrivbed and we all sat down int he middle of the room, bracketed by two tables of half dozen people each, sharing stories, laughing and just having a grand time generally. If nothing else it was wonderful to see so many happy people in such a small space.

Anyway, the food is tasty: the fried calamari was scrumptious, very tender and with the lightest of batter; on the other hand the Cassarino specials were large, lots of layers adding to the bulk and very filling. The wines were mostly non-Italian (odd we thought), but we did manage to find a Primitivo from Puglia for $25. We skipped desserts (everybody had doggie bags already.) The meal was very reasonably priced ($176 for five of us).

Service was the one weak link. When Jack asked our server, "Angela," about a particular wine, she remarked that it tasted like raspberry, fruit and "stuff like that." Of course her black nail polish gave her away but we tried to give her intelligence the benefit of the doubt.

We were unsuccessful.

Otherwise I suppose we could recommend this place but there are so many others along Atwell's. . .

Cassarino's, on Atwell's, just off the corner of Dean Street.

La Hacienda in Providence

2007-11-24T07:54:00.000-05:00

A new Mexican restaurant, or rather a second shop of one of the favorites in the city (according to two couples sitting next to us), is La Hacienda. Located in the frustratingly convoluted Olneyville Square area this very casual and very authentic (I'm told) Mexican eatery does serve great food at rock-bottom prices as well as delicious Mexican beer. Service was prompt and the place was very clean. They were still celebrating their grand opening so there was plenty of wonderful live music as well.

La Hacienda, 1955 Plainfield Street (401-275-2385)

Gracie's in Providence

2007-11-20T08:01:00.000-05:00

One of the more upscale restaurants in downtown ("downcity") Providence, Gracie's is an oasis of calm and quiet with a distinct air of elegant simplicity. The food is superb: we both had fish (Susie the trout and I had tautog) for the plat; we had aperitifs and then two wines by the glass (a very nice selection of wines are available by the glass). For dessert Susie had the creme brulee, which she thought was some of the best she's ever tasted (and she's tasted quite a few!).

The service is keen but not fawning, and our server confidently suggested a nice wine to go with our fish (the pinot gris blend "Evolution" from Oregon).

The food is not inexpensive to be sure, but hey, life is full of tradeoffs.

Reservations strongly recommended. 194 Washington street, 401.272.7811