New Year's Eve at Gracie's in Providence

The folks at Gracie's were kind enough to invite to come by this past New year's Eve and take some photos and shoot some video of their new pastry chef at work. So I did.

"Art of the Tart" at Gracie's

No, this isn't about a cheap woman who paints. It's about food. Really good food. Last Monday night, 4 February, Susie and chef Joe Hafner gave a class in the kitchen at Gracie's, "The Art of the Tart," or, how to make great tart dough. (photo: Joe, Susie and Cara gearing up or the tart demo!)

When I learned about the class I asked Joe if I could take a few photos and he was kind enough not only to allow me to intrude on this very personal evening but he fed me as well!

Joe and Cara had everything prepared for the savory portion of the evening's class, and Brendan had chosen the wines for the evening.

Joe:


Cara:


Brendan:

Susie demonstrated how to prepare two different dough recipes: a chocolate dough, followed by her personal favorite, a pate sableé with almonds (d'amandes). Using these two basic doughs she prepared three desserts for the evening's presentation: a chocolate ganache tart, a lemon-lime tart, and a pear-almond tart.




The class was small, only five people, but they were clearly a dedicated group of serious cooks, and the questions flew fast for most of the session.

"How do you. . . ?"

"Why do you . . . ?"

"Really?

"Why?"

These folks came to Gracie's that night for two reasons: to learn how to make good food better and then eat it. They certainly got what they bargained for.


After the demonstration, Joe and Cara fixed a delicious traditional quiche filled with bacon, leek and gruyere followed by a breast of duck cooked to perfection -- and believe me it tasted as good as it looks.


Brendan, the wine master at Gracie's paired a Ramey chardonnay with the quiche and then a Malbec from Argentina with the duck. With dessert we had a tokay from Hungary.

Everyone had a wonderful time and you can tell that Susie has, as Joe pointed rightly out, "hit her stride."

Wish you had been there!

Steve

Light fare in Providence: Pastiche and Olga's

This past week we went out in Providence for daytime dining -- checking out a couple of the more talked about places in the city for light fare.

Pastiche on Spruce street on Federal Hill is a great place for coffee and a pastry during the day, or dessert after dinner -- in fact they're open pretty much every evening until 11 p.m. The service was amiable, the fire in the fireplace warm and inviting and the food delicious. (We split a scrumptious fruit tart.)

Olga's on Point street serves a bit more lunch time food -- paninis, homemade pizzas, soups and sandwiches. The atmosphere here is significantly funkier than at Pastiche where one might find a more refined French feel I suppose. Olga's is full of hipsters and L. L. Bean types, aging hippies, young professionals yearning to be hip, in other words, another place where you can feel comfortable just supping coffee, reading the paper, spending some quality time with friends. Susan had the Tuna Melt and I had the Thai noodles. sound hip? Sound trendy? Who cares? It was deeeeelicious!

Ciao,

Steve

Cassarino's on Federal Hill in Providence

Cassarino's is one of those places smack in the middle of Federal Hill that have been around for years and people just enjoy coming to for drinks, laughs and lots of heavy Italian food.

We caught up with jack and Pat F. from Vermont the other night and after they watched their son perform at a concert at Providence College, the three of them met Susie and I at Cassarino's. It's literally a five-minute drive for us to Atwell's Avenue and we had the good sense to park on a side street and walk a couple of blocks to the restaurant. (Parking on weekends in particular can be challenging.)

When we arrived Pat and Mike were just inside waiting for jack to park the car -- he soon arrivbed and we all sat down int he middle of the room, bracketed by two tables of half dozen people each, sharing stories, laughing and just having a grand time generally. If nothing else it was wonderful to see so many happy people in such a small space.

Anyway, the food is tasty: the fried calamari was scrumptious, very tender and with the lightest of batter; on the other hand the Cassarino specials were large, lots of layers adding to the bulk and very filling. The wines were mostly non-Italian (odd we thought), but we did manage to find a Primitivo from Puglia for $25. We skipped desserts (everybody had doggie bags already.) The meal was very reasonably priced ($176 for five of us).

Service was the one weak link. When Jack asked our server, "Angela," about a particular wine, she remarked that it tasted like raspberry, fruit and "stuff like that." Of course her black nail polish gave her away but we tried to give her intelligence the benefit of the doubt.

We were unsuccessful.

Otherwise I suppose we could recommend this place but there are so many others along Atwell's. . .

Cassarino's, on Atwell's, just off the corner of Dean Street.

La Hacienda in Providence

A new Mexican restaurant, or rather a second shop of one of the favorites in the city (according to two couples sitting next to us), is La Hacienda. Located in the frustratingly convoluted Olneyville Square area this very casual and very authentic (I'm told) Mexican eatery does serve great food at rock-bottom prices as well as delicious Mexican beer. Service was prompt and the place was very clean. They were still celebrating their grand opening so there was plenty of wonderful live music as well.

La Hacienda, 1955 Plainfield Street (401-275-2385)

Gracie's in Providence

One of the more upscale restaurants in downtown ("downcity") Providence, Gracie's is an oasis of calm and quiet with a distinct air of elegant simplicity. The food is superb: we both had fish (Susie the trout and I had tautog) for the plat; we had aperitifs and then two wines by the glass (a very nice selection of wines are available by the glass). For dessert Susie had the creme brulee, which she thought was some of the best she's ever tasted (and she's tasted quite a few!).

The service is keen but not fawning, and our server confidently suggested a nice wine to go with our fish (the pinot gris blend "Evolution" from Oregon).

The food is not inexpensive to be sure, but hey, life is full of tradeoffs.

Reservations strongly recommended. 194 Washington street, 401.272.7811

Don Jose Tequilas in Providence

We orginally wanted to try a new Mexican restaurant that recently opened near our flat but it was closed -- it being the magical Monday. It was our first night living in Providence and we had to eat out so five of us, me, Susie, Rosemary, our friend from Gerrish days in Maine this past summer who stopped by for the evening, Susie's brother Dick and his wife Dorothy who drove down to help us celebrate settling in, all headed off to Atwell's Avenue to see what was open.

We no sooner got out of the car and started strolling looking for someplace to eat than I spied Don Jose. We remarked then -- and several times during later forways to Atwell's -- that there were in fact quite a few different ethnic places to eat on fedeeral Hill than Italian.

Anyway, the interior was relaxed, the service extremely warm and friendly. The opening Margaritas were delicious and indeed so was the food: burritos mole, enchiladas and the snacking chip were homemade and scrumptious. For five of us with drinks the bill came to just a hair over a hundred bucks (before tip), which included drinks.

Don Jose Tequilas is also online.

(November 2007)