Birch in Providence

Located in downtown Providence, right next door to Gracie's along Washington Street was Tini's, one of our favorite eateries. Launched by George Germon and Johanne Killeen (of Al Forno fame), Tini's was small and unique in design (a food bar really) but under the culinary direction of Darius Salko you could always count on not just good food but great food.

When Tini's closed earlier this year it left a big question mark in the minds of local foodies: what is going in to that tiny niche across from Trinity Rep Theater. Well, now we know.

Ben Sukle, who helmed the opening of the Dorrance Restaurant in downtown Providence,  and his wife Heidi have taken the space and, keeping the same design (not much choice there!), launched "Birch" last month.

Susie, Andrea, Matt and I met up there the other day to taste test the food and get a sense of the new space.  While we miss Darius' incredibly creative and tasty comfort food (my God his gnocchi and rabbit!!), still we found the food at Birch quite nice: imaginative, flavorful and priced to sell.  A very nicely rounded wine list as well.

The space only seats about 15 people so I suspect that there will be standing room only before long. Oh, and parking is a challenge of course, it being Providence, so be prepared to be creative on a busy weekend.

Matt always has a way to make people smile

Tini's layout is still pretty much the same: u-shaped bar; kitchen is to the right rear

no, that's not sausage but a roasted carrot with Point Judith Fluke!

shredded crab with potatoes, quinoa, green tomatoes and an egg yolk

Point Judith stripped sea bass with Hakurei turnips, mussels, Escarole and lovage

crispy Vermont quail

triple chocolate pudding with rhubarb sorbet, peanuts and oat snaps

unique take on cheesecake with glazed strawberries, sorrel and wild rose ice cream

raspberries with almonds

Tini's closed

One of our favorite places in Providence over the past several years has been Tini's, a "food bar" with monitors subbing for menus, and  a U-shaped table where one shared food and ideas, or not, as the moment moved you.

Designed and built by George Germon and Johanne Killeen of Al Forno's fame, and run by the incredibly talented Darius Salko, Tini's was always a place to feel at home. With smooth cocktails, luscious wines (nicely priced I might add) and scrumptious food (homemade gnocchi with rabbit) it oozed warm conversation.

The good news is that Darius is alive and well living right across the state line in Massachusetts, readying himself for the next phase of his culinary career: becoming a farmer of ingredients he will then turn into product and who knows? maybe into a restaurant down in the wilds of Dartmouth.

We can't wait.

Broadway Bistro and Tini's

Within the last week and a half we've returned (for the umpteenth time) to a couple of our favorite local eateries.

Broadway Bistro, on Broadways (surprise!)

Sauteed green beans with bacon -



Sweet potato croquettes -



Our standard ribs 'n grits - now this is comfort food!



Tini's on Washington Street downtown

Zucchini fries with basil and lemon -



Puree of country turnip (so sweet!) with "farmer pesto (made with kale) and drops of luscious olive oil -



Fresh pea and ricotta ravioli -



Bread gnocchi with rabbit -

Tini's in Downtown Providence

Another of favorite eating haunts, Tini's, wedged between Gracie's and the Bravo Brasserie on Washington Street in downtown Providence requires a certain suspension of your ideas about what a restaurant should and shouldn't be. The sign above the door says "Food Bar" and indeed that's exactly what it is: a bar that serves food. U-shaped the bartenders are also foodtenders and they do an incredible job of both. The long and short of it is the superb service is outdone only by the incredible food served up by Chef Darius Salko.

Wednesday nights dining out in downtown Providence are often a quiet affair and Tini's was no exception last evening. We started out with a glass of cava for Susie and I had an Ipanema cocktail (Brazilian rum, lemon juice, simple syrup and cranberry juice), both perfectly suited for toasting Susie's late brother, her incredible mother and the future of the French Tarte.

For starters Susie had the bruschetta special and I had Brussels sprouts, followed by short ribs ravioli for Susie and the steak and fries for me.  The steak was prepared nearly sushi-grade (think tuna) but tender, sweet and matched in flavor by Tini's succulent fries -- the best I've found in the city so far. All washed down with a light Bardalino -- a bit light for the steak but nice nonetheless. Susie rounded her meal off with the lemon gelato. Wonderful!

Two suggestions: comfortable stools would be nice touch; the ones there now are like sitting on a plank of wood (which it is) and they're difficult to move in and out. This is a bar after all. . . And maybe a couple of nice full-bodied reds available by the glass?

Tini
200 Washington Street
Providence, RI 02909
tel. 401-383-2400
online: www.thetini.com

Back to Tini's

OK, I know -- it seems we're hung up on the same places to eat in Providence, that we go to the same places over and over again. Well, there's a good reason for that -- we like those places. That's pretty simple, I should think.

Anyway, we went back to Tini's last night (Friday) ostensibly for a glass of sparkling to celebrate Susie's new space (the lease will be signed on Monday) and ended up staying for dinner.

We started out with a cocktail of gin, Campari and prosecco, along with an order of Tini's fries with mayonnaise and hot sauce. Next up was the roasted fennel app with a glass of Gruner, and then Susie had the scallops with beluga lentils (washed down by a Provencal rose) and I had the Veal Milanese (con un bicchiere da nebbiolo).

Service, as always is friendly and the atmosphere cozy and intimate (although I would opt for more comfortable stools).

In a city noted for its culinary creatives, Darius Salko is one of the most inventive chefs around -- but even more importantly he has a deep understanding of harmony and balance in his flavorings and portions. My veal, a tender cut, was breaded and lightly fried to perfection and the accompanying wide pasta tasted as if the cheese was in the pasta and not on it (no messy glob of cheesy sauce oozing oil and spreading everywhere on this dish). Susie's scallops were equally perfect and the lentils with bits of bacon made for a superb winter dish.

Tini's menu may have changed from its Tapas roots but it still remains one of the better values in Providence.

Tini's
200 Washington St
Providence, RI 02903

Tini's in Providence

After slaving in the kitchen all day Susie, AKA the French Tarte, needed a break from the heat and admittedly pleasant pressures of baking --  naturally, in a city known for its food we went out to eat.

A favorite spot to grab an early evening cocktail or glass of wine is Tini's at 200 Washington Street, right across from Trinity Rep, one of the city's most popular theaters. This night, however, we decided to stay and enjoy Darius' latest menu offerings. And we were not disappointed -- no sirree!

So many people in this corner of the planet are familiar with Atwell's Avenue -- yet for us the "Federal Hill" cachet is more smoke and mirrors than anything else. Overpriced mediocrity is how we tend to describe  much if not most of the food on Atwell's. The real culinary gems, the places where you will find consistently outstanding cuisine are scattered around other corners of the city: Nick's on Broadway, Broadway Bistro, Ama's, Chez Pascal, New Rivers, Bacaro's and Cook and Brown to name our favorites.

Anyway, back at Tini's we settled on a pair of stools near the back wall (Hickock Syndrome) and kicked off with a brace of Rosy Cheeks cocktails - vodka, Campari and grapefruit jouce; and boy were these good!



For starters we ordered the "Spicy Broccoli" with chili peppers. Yes, it was a bit piccante but delicious -- roasted to perfection with just the right bite to it.



We both had pasta; I had Darius' homemade gnocchi -- with sourdough flour instead of potato -- in a rabbit ragu, kalamata olives and chiles.



Susie had the short ribs ravioli with mushrooms and gorgonzola.



Both pastas were washed down with a glass of Nebbiolo.

Like the other restaurants noted above, Tini's defines the new wave Providence food scene: quality, creativity, and value all wrapped up in just the portion.

Tini's
200 Washington Street
Providence
401-383-2400

Tini's is open

The much-awaited new restaurant by George Germon and Johanne Kileen, is open at last. Located on Westminster street, directly across from Tinity Rep, which is housed in the gorgeous Emery Majestic Theater, Tini's (as in the back half of Martini's) is wedged between Bravo Bustro at one corner and Gracie's at the other. While the space is incredibly small, in fact tiny, the interior is slick, modern and apparently the menu is presented via HiDef TV. Seating is at the bar only, very sush-like.

I hope to have a more reliable report soon.